Kurky by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

 

At last, the fragrance that I had the highest hopes for. Well, maybe not, but it was definitely very exciting to get my hands on and perhaps the reason why I clicked "purchase" in the end.

I don't use Fragrantica anymore, unless a fragrance isn't in the Parfumo database. Kurky has a very illusive mention of "fruity notes" on Parfumo and I couldn't lay that to rest, so I visited Fragrantica and saw that the notes differed. From just white musk, fruity notes, sandalwood and vanilla, to raspberry, peach, gummy candies, fruity notes, white musk and vanilla. So what is it?

Well, seldomly visiting the house's own site, I can report that Maison Francis Kurkdjian writes the following: "Gourmand musky accord - [...] mainly white musk [...] evoking the smell of clean and cotton, sometimes with fruity accents, for a sensation of softness and comfort. [...] tinged with vanilla and sandalwood notes".

So my expectations of a fruity punch are actually not a guarantee.
I suspect that the scent will be as fruity as Lionora (if you read my previous review, you know).

Kurky is, first and foremost, a musky scent. The opening does have a fruitiness to it, but it's very illusive. Do not expect a fruity fragrance. It is soft, creamy, and cottony, just as described by MFK. As Kurky dries down, I dare to say that it's a skin scent - if applied lightly, others might think that you are blessed with a seductive natural scent. Yet again, I wouldn't call this a fruity fragrance, it is even less so than Lionora. Kurky has actually no notes of fruit after just a couple of minutes. Though lovely, I find it quite cloying and I am not impressed.
Glad to have tried it, but I am not looking for a monotonous, sweet and dense perfume. I am looking for a sweet, fruity kick of joy!

So, from all the five scents in the kit, I actually reminisce Carmina the most. The last in the bunch, I wonder when I'll post my next review...

Notes from Parfumo:

White musk Fruity notes Sandalwood Vanilla

Lionora by Mindgames

 

I feel like Erba Pura is still lingering somewhere in my office. What a longevity!

I was wondering whether it was the right time to try Lionora, but Erba Pura is only faintly present and I love how well my "come-back" from my hiatus is going.

So, Lionora, a recommendation I believe is from none other than Anne Lauren herself. She is a true influencer. This fragrance really excites me, because I am adoring rich fruity fragrances at the moment. Dear 90's kids, do you also have vivid memories of fruity fragrances being childish or juvenile at best? The rest of the fragrances was like that of Trésor by Lancôme or Shalimar. That's at least how I reminisce fragrances from my childhood. Now-a-day, fruity fragrances are juicy, rich, vibrant, realistic and seductive! Lamar has actually become my favourite fragrance in my collection.

Lionora is promising apricot, passionfruit, ginger and tonka, but also sandalwood and osmanthus, which has me jittery with excitement. 

She (because apparently I have gendered the fragrance) opens with a scent that has me searching my memory like crazy. Lionora's opening reminds me so much of a designer fragrance. Is it one of the My Way flankers by Armani? Or perhaps Nomade by Chloé? As it dries down, I smell a delicate apricot note that is very lovely - it could potentially be a difficult note, if not done right. Unfortunately, I was hoping for a tart freshness from passionfruit, but I cannot smell it at all. The fragrance smells tactilely soft, yes, I can smell a specific touch. It smells like the soft fuzz on the apricot skin. It's quite sweet, but it's not too close to becoming cloying. I just wish that the ginger or passionfruit was more prevalent, to "break" the scent profile a little. I wouldn't classify Lionora as a fruity fragrance, but rather a sweet and creamy fragrance that perhaps has stepped on an apricot fallen off the tree due to it's ripeness. I expect some tart, sour or fresh kick from fruity fragrances, but hey, that's just me!

All four fragrances from the kit have been a pleasure to meet. And I'm truly happy that I haven't yet fallen in love with any of them, because I am not supposed to by any more fragrances. However, we are approaching the final boss, Kurky by Maison Francis Kurkdjian.
I will try to contain myself.

Notes from Parfumo:

 Top Notes

Apricot Passion fruit Madagascan ginger Mango leaf Tonka bean

 Heart Notes

Apricot skin Iced tea Osmanthus Tuberose absolute Freesia

 Base Notes

Sandalwood Ecomusk® Tonkalactone®

Erba Pura by Xerjoff

 

Subconsciously, I am looking most forward to Kurky and Lionora from my newest scent kit, which is way I'll be sampling Erba Pura by Xerjoff today. This fragrance needs no introduction, so I'll just get to it. I am only years behind on this release, but who pays attention...

Promises of a citrus burst off top, accompanied by fruity notes and supported by white musk, amber and vanilla. As a citrus lover, this cannot be anything, but good.

However, Erba Pura opens with empty promises. I expected something completely different. What I had in mind, was the quality and realism of citrus notes like that of the house of Kerosene. Delicious sweetness like that of Lamar from Kajal and a sensual base of true vanilla.
What I got at first whiff was something synthetic. Then, as it dried down, the scent revealed an artificial sweetness like that of children's candy. The scent isn't bad per se, but it is far from what I am looking for. This is definitely a summer fragrance, and I would even venture to say that it only belongs on the beach, among fruity cocktails and Malibu sunscreens. I'm experiencing a coconutty creaminess, but not like that of coconut cream, but half-and-half coconut milk and water.

I have to stop and think for a minute. Erba Pura is a fragrance that is so seasonal that I cannot help but think that it just doesn't fit today. Yes, the sun is out and it's fairly warm, but if I were to be in hot and sunny Warsaw, on a summer visit, scorching heat of 35 degrees celsius, Erba Pura would probably hit like a strong daiquiri cocktail and I would love it.

Gone are the days where I purchase a fragrance at a specific location or in a specific mood, without taking into consideration how most of my days look during the year. 
I will never stop adoring Taj by Yas Perfumes, but she is just not the same at home, like she was on that sunny, sunny day at Sense Dubai in Warsaw....

Next!

Notes from Parfumo:

 Top Notes

Calabrian bergamot Sicilian lemon Sicilian orange

 Heart Notes

Fruity notes

 Base Notes

White musk Amber Bourbon vanilla

Carmina by Creed

Finally trying a Creed fragrance.

To my knowledge, I honestly haven't yet sampled a Creed scent. But as soon as I heard of Carmina, I knew I had to.

With notes of black cherry, pink pepper, saffron, rose, peony, violet, cashmere wood, amber, musk, myrrh and frankincense. This can nothing, but be good.

I don't know this house's DNA, so first spray came as a surprise to me.
Firstly, the scent opens very light and fresh, almost clean, despite the floral, sweet and deep notes. As soon as the initial spray evaporates, the cherry sweetness appears, and I instantly identify peony - a light, almost watery clean floral note.

I am on a cherry hunt, but I must say that I wouldn't classify Carmina as a cherry fragrance. The cherry note is only here to add sweetness, like vanilla often is in woody or smokey fragrances without making them gourmand. 

Carmina is beautiful. It is feminine, lightly floral and sweet, but not overpowering and cloying.
When I test a new fragrance, I always do it from the lens of "would it fit into my collection?".
Though wonderfully elegant, I feel satiated with owning Pivoine Suzhou by Armani and in all actually also Mon Evidence by Yves Rocher. The scents are not similar, but they are in the same family of emotions and moods.

I doused myself in Carmina and I take it all back. Carmina is a cherry fragrance, but I seem to always compare a cherry fragrance with Lost Cherry by Tom Ford, which isn't fair.
Carmina stands on it's own. It is an airy floral fragrance sweetened by the presence of cherry and maybe a bit of cherry blossom. Do I need it, perhaps not, would I like to have it, definitely, but is it fruity enough for what I'm looking for?
Maybe, but I still have three fruity fragrances to try from my newest kit.
Stay tuned.

Notes from Parfumo:

 Top Notes

Black cherry Pink pepper Saffron

 Heart Notes

May rose Peony Violet Cashmere wood

 Base Notes

Amber Musk Myrrh Frankincense

Narcotic Delight by Initio

I am still on the hunt for the perfect cherry fragrance.

To those who have followed me for a while, you know how I once fell in love with Lost Cherry by Tom Ford, but couldn't support how poorly it performs. I have tried many cherry fragrances since, and my last subject ended very poorly. I ordered a sample of A Little Secret by Imaginary Authors, a house I adore, but the sample got crushed into smithereens. Not a whiff of cherry was left.

So, as a "good job" pat on the back to myself (because I've recently sold so many perfumes from my collection that I'm down to about 40 fragrances) I bought a little sample kit in which I have plenty of cherry fragrances to meet.

First in the bunch, Narcotic Delight.

With notes of cherry, cognac, tobacco, pink and black pepper, hedione and vanilla.
I am off to a good start.

💬

My hand lingers over the keyboard, because as soon as I was about to dot down what I was experiencing, the scent changed. And then it changed yet again. Only from memory can I describe the opening of Narcotic Delight as being fruity and with a fresh note of cherry. A minute in, the cherry is just but an illusion on my skin. Most of what I get, is the tobacco. Not too herbal, not too dry. Something softens it and makes it sweeter. It is the cherry, but without actually being there.

I do not smell vanilla, the scent is more... 
Narcotic Delight actually smells like a quality piece of marzipan, unsweetened, rolled in a light coating of very dark chocolate. No fruit, no sugar, just a hint of cherry aroma in the center.
It is too bland for my taste and becomes quite cloying.

I must say that I expected more. Maybe it is for the better, because I have four more promising fragrances to go, and I'm not about to expand my collection (... too much) 😉

Notes from Parfumo:

Cherry Cognac Tobacco Black pepper Hedione Vanilla Pink pepper