Cologne Cédrat by Matiere Premiere

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

A fresh burst of delicious citrus!

Cologne Cédrat is quite masculine from the get go. I do love my citrus fragrances, they are one of my favourite, but the lack of balancing sweetness in this fragrance makes it lean more towards a masculine fragrance. No wonder, the name already suggests it!

Cologne Cédrat is aromatic, spicy and green, but a note plays with my imagination and makes this fragrance quite sexy too. It reminds me of a fragrance I have tried not long ago, it might even be an undertone that I usually find in Imaginary Authors fragrances, but Cologne Cédrat has nowhere near the same uniqueness and quirkiness that Imaginary Authors has. I do appreciate this fragrance's linear composition, though. Simplicity is sometimes the key.

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On paper, Cologne Cédrat is far more fresh and invigorating. It almost smells like vervain. It remains just as delicious after dry down and oxidation, whereas on skin, the fragrance loses its masculine and spicy quality. 

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Immediately after spraying Cologne Cédrat on myself, I reached for my partner's wrist, I just had to smell it on a man. On him, the fragrance is deep and remains masculine. No questions asked, this little sample is his!

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My first experience with a Matiere Premiere fragrance has me very excited for the fragrances ahead! Cologne Cédrat is a wonderful aromatic citrus that performs best on the masculine side.

Amyris Femme Extrait by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Photosource: The Velvet Life

Amyris Femme Extrait is the second fragrance from the house of Maison Francis Kurkdjian that I have tried. Though my expectations weren't high because of the scent profile of this fragrance, I had some expectations considering the status of this luxury house. The fact that Baccarat Rouge 540 was the first fragrance from MFK I had tried, my expectations were somewhat elevated for sure.

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Amyris Femme Extrait opens with a sour yet light floral note. I get hints of iris and the sourness must be some kind of citrus. The composition is nice, yet boring, in my opinion. I do hope I'm not offending anyone, but I've never been a fan of florals and my expectations for a MFK fragrance are high.

The fragrance is quite ordinary, I cannot imagine many disliking it, which makes it even more uninteresting to me, but at the same time I image that it's one of its appeals. No toes will be stepped on with this one.

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This fragrance reminds me a lot of how I remember Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne smelling like and even Mon Evidence by Yves Rocher. However, Mon Evidence is more delicious and unique for a fraction of the expense.

Something about Amyris Femme Extrait is quite aquatic and hints at a resemblance of an air refresher. On paper, the fragrance is actually more pleasant. It remains lighter and with hints of conference pear, sweet and fresh. On my skin, the fragrance becomes deeper and with a soapy undertone. This fragrance might be more suited for Spring. But alas, I won't be revisiting it, it just isn't for me.

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Amyris Femme Extrait is, however, very beautifully presented in its glass bottle and light pink fluid, and the eau de parfum is even prettier!

I'm happy I received a sample of this fragrance with one of my orders, but florals, no matter how high end, will never have a chance with me, I guess.

Memoirs of A Trespasser by Imaginary Authors

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright) 

Memoirs of A Trespasser is already, straight from the bottle, a deliciously warm vanilla. Cosy, warming, but equally daring.

 This fragrance is a true vanilla, it is not too sweet or artificial, but smells like scraping the richest bourbon vanilla out of the vanilla bean. The woodiness of this fragrance induces a vision of a leather Chesterfield coach in a book filled library and a half burnt cigar still burning in a gold ashtray.

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On paper, bergamot and vanilla open the fragrance hand in hand, whereas on my skin, Memoirs of A Trespasser is dominated by myrrh and benzoin resin, a very strong and spearing duo.

This fragrance is very rich and heavy on skin, not at all as light as it is on paper. I do recommend trying this one with your own skin chemistry. You won't be disappointed!

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After dry down, Memoirs of A Trespasser becomes a milky, creamy vanilla with a smoked oak undertone. Very different from the sharp opening that also had some burned notes, but not as balanced as after the dry down.

This fragrance has to be worn an hour or so before it fully develops, and when it does... Enjoy the show!

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What has to be said, is that this fragrance shines in the colder months. I tried it a long time ago and knew I had to have it at some point. Then, late summer this year, I bought it and the spell was broken. I even considered selling it, because I never reached for it, but then the weather became colder, I thought "before you go, I'll review you" and it was love at first sight (well, maybe not completely first, but...). I have worn nothing but Memoirs of A Trespasser for the whole month of December and I struggle to reach for anything else still. An absolute compliment getter, and future addiction to anyone who tries it.

The Cobra & The Canary by Imaginary Authors

Photosource: Love After Love

The Cobra & The Canary is how far Imaginary Authors can go for me and my love for unisex fragrances. A City On Fire had just enough depth to become sweet on my skin and wearable, whereas The Cobra & The Canary is just too rough for me.

This fragrance is raw and I have been dancing around it for months. 

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On paper, the fragrance is much lighter and with a delicious lemon note. The hay is noticeable, orris is in focus and tobacco is ever so slightly there too, but on my skin lemon has no presence and the main accord is just rough and masculine.

Luckily orris is detectable on my skin, without it, the fragrance would be wearing me and not me it!

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To be honest, it is quite difficult to pinpoint any specific notes on my skin. Not something I struggle with with niche fragrances. Usually, Imaginary Authors has very distinct notes in their blends. I have read many reviews saying it smells like wet cement and though I could agree with that, I haven't gotten that impression by myself.

After dry down, the fragrance isn't as overwhelming, but my ongoing headache from the fragrance persisted throughout.

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The Cobra & The Canary is an experience on paper, I actually like it, but it is very masculine and too much so for me to wear it.

With my skin chemistry, The Cobra & The Canary is a pass, though it hurts to say being such a fan of Imaginary Authors, the two do not speak the same language at all.