Baccarat Rouge 540 Eau de Parfum by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

The anticipation to try Baccarat Rouge 540 has been long and intense. Reviews of this fragrance have seduced and promised an olfactory experience like no other.

Now that we are here, I am not disappointed. I am absolutely enamoured, mesmerised and in love with Baccarat Rouge 540 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian.

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Intense, but not overbearing; deep, yet not cloying; sweet, yet delicately so. BR540 is a smooth, soft and sensual fragrance.

It has an obvious note of saffron and a surprising fresh opening, but not quite like that of a citrus, but not like that of fir resin either, though it is one of the base notes. This fragrance is what I always wanted Santal Carmin from Atelier Cologne to be.

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An hour in after oxidation, BR540 transforms into a more masculine fragrance on my skin giving it an edge full of character. The ambergris gives a sweet undertone without being too overpowering or animalic.

Six hours on my skin and BR540 has become more smokey, this fragrance is ever evolving and it only becomes more and more lovable over time.

That is after first wear...

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I purchased a sample some time ago and just after one wear, I knew I had to have this fragrance in my collection. As soon as I had my own BR540 in hand, I wore it the same day. Creamy opening, smells like gold (for lack of better description) we were reunited. 

However, an hour passed and suddenly I could not smell it anymore. It didn't happen with the sample that I had that lasted on me all day.

I wore it once again some days later and the same happened, I could not smell my gold after just one hour. Fortunately, all my colleagues could, but what an absolute devastation! I read up on it and some do not get the same satisfaction from Baccarat Rouge 540 as others, because of ambroxan 'blindness'.

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So let's talk. Is Baccarat Rouge 540 worth all the praise? If you have the money to blow, yes, if you don't, no. I might have been one of the latter. Baccarat is masterly blended, it is smooth, pleasant and gorgeous, but is it worth it's price tag? I honestly do not think so.

Being a novice in the world of fragrances, I was charmed into wanting BR540. If I found this fragrance on Fragrantica by chance and read about the composition, I wouldn't give it a second thought, but weeks into the fragrance community and my curiosity knew no bounds.

To me Baccarat represents my sincere interest in olfactory experiences and I feel some type of pride in having this fragrance in my collection. However, I would not spend so much on a perfume again any time soon. For the fraction of the price I could get a more exciting and unique fragrance with far better longevity. Is it BR540's fault that our chemistry doesn't work? No, but it's the last time I go with the stream and let stream take me away. After some thought, I sincerely do not have any regrets. Baccarat fits into my collection snuggly and I see it as a little price among my favourites. 

Before I go, an honorable mention is Santal Carmin and Memoirs of A Trespasser by Imaginary Authors as a perfect layering option to give Baccarat Rouge 540 an even richer base and a better longevity if you are anosmic to ambroxan like me.

Tonight, this holly Christmas Eve, I will be smelling like gold to the satisfaction of my dear family.

Merry Christmas everyone! <3

xo Julia

Broken Theories by Kerosene

Photosource: The Perfumery Barcelona

What initially opens with a blast of green notes instantly turns into a bonfire gone cold. Broken Theories smells like waking up early on a summer morning in a cabin. You walk outside while everyone else is still asleep after a night at the bonfire, the fire has gone out, but the morning dew reawakens the smell of burning wood just slightly. 

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Kerosene fragrances often have a dark element that evokes memories or visions of fire or smoke, very fitting to the house' name. Broken Theories isn't as strong as Blackmail though, but it doesn't have a sweet undertone either making it more realistic. After dry down, the fragrance remains much the same on paper, but vanilla peaks through and the initial scent of bonfire turns into that of incense. 

The story of Broken Theories on my skin is different, however. After dry down, even five hours in, the blend of tobacco, incense and oud imitates the most realistic scent of smoke. The fragrance does not change like it did on paper, during the day I got whiffs of smelling like a bonfire, Broken Theories imitates the smell of how clothes smell after sitting next to a fire impeccably.

The realistic imitation and lack of any other note to break that vision make Broken Theories a more quirky experience rather than a wearable fragrance, that is on my skin at least.

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I adore Kerosene and John Peggs creations, but Broken Theories isn't one of my favourite, the fragrance reminds me far too much of Blackmail by Kerosene, which despite its stronger character was much more wearable as a fragrance.

Poison by Dior

Photosource: Atmospheric Predecessor

Poison by Dior is one of the fragrances I remember seeing in stores back when I started wearing perfumes. Back then I opted for Cacharel Amor Amor (that one is a story of it's own), but Dior was far too expensive for me to even reach for and just get to know it.

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Since reviewing fragrances other than my own, I have become very curious with the classics, which is how I got here, to review Poison.

Poison opens with a light rose on paper, a very floral fragrance. On my skin, the scent mixes with my chemistry into a much more powdery scent.

It is very floral, a powdery tuberose.

Poison is very difficult for me to describe in notes, all I am capable of, is describing it as a rosy floral, sweet, with bitter undertones like sticking your nose into a flower and smelling the pollen. I would not at all call it fruity, my nose does not pick up either plum or wild berries. Poison is dense with flowers, like standing in a flower shop specifically in winter where there are mostly roses and not spring florals.

Maybe I went too far with the amount I put on, because the fragrance is headache inducing, but I don't think it's the case.

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Poison by Dior is a classic since 1985, but my nose interpretes this fragrance as very soapy, like a bar of Dove soap, which gives it a cheap quality.

A little joke aside, but to all my Polish followers sing with me "Aaaa mydełko Fa!". 

The scent is so pungent that I have a lump of odor in my throat. Someone on Fragrantica called Poison an "80s nightmare in a bottle", a nightmare it is not, but it's not a dream I would like to revisit any time soon.

To be frank, I am quite puzzled by this fragrance. Why was this ever a classic? Care to share a comment below?

I will never not be biased when it comes to floral fragrances, especially rose.

I do not like them, unless another olfactory family is the main accord, but I think I am capable of appreciating them nonetheless when exploring a fragrance.

However, Poison by Dior simply isn't the one for me, at least my curiosity has been satiated!

Follow by Kerosene

Photosource: Carousell

Close your eyes and imagine someone pouring you a glass of Kahlua liquor.

That is exactly how Follow by Kerosene smells.

The most realistic coffee fragrance ever. When the initial alcoholic blast evaporates, Follow reveals the scent of freshly ground coffee, dark roasted. Further from the skin, the fragrance is sweeter and with hints of cardamom, whereas close to the skin, Follow is like sticking your nose into a bag of coffee beans.

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Being an avid lover of both coffee and fragrances, the two worlds collide and intertwine in the magical scent that is Follow.

On paper, just as on skin, the alcohol at the beginning is not like that of ethanol, which is harsh on the nose, but a sweet liquor. It is very seductive and enticing.

After dry down, Follow smells like dark chocolate covered coffee beans. There is a very slight bitterness close to the skin, almost like cigarette buds, but it is not at all unpleasant.

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Follow smells like how I expected Cardamom Coffee by Lush to smell like, however, Cardamom Coffee was just a pure cardamom fragrance, which I do not like. Follow is a pure coffee fragrance, but with lingering undertones of spice and sweetness.

The balance of spice, coffee and sweetness in Follow is perfect. It is definitely a heavier fragrance, and it was slightly cloying just before the dry down, but it is perfect for this season, for autumn and winter.

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I am really on the fence whether I should purchase this fragrance. It is beautiful, masterful, absolutely delicious, but is it just too realistic for its own good? I'm still not sure...

Santal Carmin by Atelier Cologne

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

Santal Carmin is a tempting, deep saffron fragrance by the house of Atelier Cologne. The fragrance is gorgeously smooth, soft, yet with a strong character.

Though I have had this fragrance in my collection for some time, I haven't worn it a whole lot. Santal Carmin is everything I want it to be, but something is amiss.

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On paper, Santal Carmin opens with an uplifting bergamot and lime, the fragrance is absolutely delicious slowly inviting in saffron and becoming deep, enticing and slightly leathery. However, on skin, the fragrance has a different story.

Santal Carmin opens with a stronger, more spearing citrus that quickly disappears unlike on paper, where it lingers and remains throughout the dry down time. 

Saffron is definitely dominant with sandalwood carrying the fragrance along with guaiac wood and a sweet undertone of musk. Though saffron is the main accord, the fragrance remains warm and inviting without being too harsh on the nose or overpowering.

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So how come I don't wear it so much? Honestly, I do not know. It is as if every time I do, I do not feel like it matches my mood. I love it in theory, deep, enticing, rich and smooth Santal Carmin is difficult not to love, but every time I am about to douse myself in it, it becomes my second choice and I opt for something else.
The fragrance is perhaps just too cloying for me.

Gris Clair by Serge Lutens

Photosource: Elena Maxwell, Fragrantica

Gris Clair was sent to me by Lulua along with my order. I have seen Serge Lutens fragrances in the community, but I had never seen them in stores, so I was pleasantly surprised to be able to try something from this house.

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A strong aromatic scent of lavender spread in my room at first spray. Gris Clair is very herbal and instantly reminded me of Telegrama by Imaginary Authors. The fragrance is so clean at first that it reminded me more of an air refresher, but not in a bad way. However, though still very aromatic on paper, Gris Clair instantly transformed into a warm fragrance on my skin. An absolutely delicious surprise!

Something about this fragrance reminds me of camping when I was just about six or seven years old. It smells like sitting inside the caravan in the middle of the woods with my sister and parents in the hot Polish summer, but while it is raining outside. 

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Gris Clair is very different from any of the fragrances I have tried lately, a breath of fresh air. Lavender is barely present after dry down, but nonetheless detectable. The fragrance has an aromatic note other than lavender that I cannot pinpoint. Tonka and amber are what makes this fragrance so warm and inviting. I am not sure about incense or iris, they do not seem to appear at any point, neither after oxidation. 

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After consideration, Gris Clair smells like entering a luxury decor shop, fresh lavender potpourri, linen, clean notes, a sweet scented candle burning in the corner, nothing over the top. Elegant.
I really adore Gris Clair, a perfect stepping stone into the fragrance house of Serge Lutens, but my first impression is also that it isn't as potent as I like my fragrances to be. The longevity was about one hour, now I can only smell it close to my skin.

The scent is divine though and I would love to add this to my collection.

Olympéa by Paco Rabanne

Photosource: Paco Rabanne

When it comes to classic fragrances, like Olympéa by Paco Rabanne for instance, I have learned to tread carefully. These fragrances have become classics or favourites for a reason, but my knowledge of fragrances is yet to be more evolved, especially in the realm of their history.

Olympéa was one of the fragrances that caught my eye when rummaging the perfume departments and the composition sparked my initial interest. After joining the fragrance community, I saw Olympéa reviewed and raved about by many, so I had to try it for myself.

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What caught me off guard, was an initial opening note of licorice on my skin, a note that isn't on 'the menu' according to Fragrantica. However, on paper, Olympéa is a much lighter, sweeter and more neutral fragrance. The opening note on paper is actually very undetermined, it is neither citrus nor vanilla, but it is sweet and fresh.

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Personally, Olympéa is a classic example of what separates niche fragrances from the more mainstream. From the experience I have gathered as of now, I find that niche fragrances have distinct, individual notes blended together yet still being definable in their own right, whereas mainstream fragrances are more blended, fused, and difficult to separate into specific notes. My nose is not yet trained enough to smell individual notes in fragrances like Olympéa, for instance, I do not smell vanilla per se, I rather smell something sweet. Rather than jasmine, the fragrance gives a slight impression of being floral.

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On paper, the fragrance has a resemblance to the sweetness of bubble gum after dry down. It performs much more mature on my skin, where ambergris is quite dominant. 

Hours after oxidation, Olympéa is classic, elegant and sweet. Very suitable for any occasion. I understand the admiration of Olympéa, but for me it is far too simple. As far as I know, Paco Rabanne does not cater to a niche audience, so it's simplicity yet elegance is to please most noses.

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Olympéa is a light floral amber to my nose, I do not get any ginger, mandarin, sandalwood or salt, which I would have loved to give it a fresher or sharper character. It is absolutely timeless and elegant, but to my knowledge it has also been reformulated? How does it compare to 'the old' Olympéa?

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Olympéa is wonderful, on paper that is. It is fresher, cleaner and lighter. On my skin, it becomes quite generic. This fragrance is perfectly blended, it is nice, but it is not the type of fragrance I wear or would like in my collection.

Whispered Myths by Imaginary Authors

Photosource: Imaginary Authors

What a fragrance! Not at all what I expected. Imaginary Authors never cease to amaze me, but this time I don't know whether I'm in over my head.

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Whispered Myths opens with a strong note of cantaloupe promising something sweet, but the fragrance is very resinous and leaves me speechless. This is a strong and oud heavy fragrance! I don't think it will please many Western noses, like my own, I think this might be too Middle Eastern for most. Oud is very appreciated in the East and the use of real, natural Cambodian oud in Whispered Myths might be too intimidating for some. This fragrance has me realising that my nose is not ready for real oud!

I am an avid and biased lover of the house of Imaginary Authors, but this one is simply too heavy for me. Though not completely unwearable like some reviewers say on Fragrantica, this is a very unique fragrance that won't please the masses, which in itself makes it thee fragrance for someone who can carry an oud like this.

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After dry down, Whispered Myths changes into a more nautical fragrance on my skin hinting at the imagined note of a salvaged shipwreck. A slight note of salt, wet wood and ambrette is what this fragrances is made of.

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It isn't even a case of the fragrance leaning too masculine, resinous heavy Whispered Myths is just too linear for me to be pleasant to wear. I need a slightly fresher element, maybe a sweet undertone or an herbal kick to lift it's character, because it almost becomes peppery by being so oud heavy. I don't know whether this is the correct term, but it is very monotone in its nature.

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A couple of hours' wear leaves Whispered Myths unchanged on my skin. On paper, the fragrance is much lighter with a fresh note of not too sweet cantaloupe, a nice twist that I would have loved on my skin.

Though still loving Imaginary Authors to bits, Whispered Myths won't become a part of my collection anytime soon, but I am absolutely in awe of their use of real oud.

Lignum Vitae by BeauFort London

Photosource: Bloom Perfumery

BeauFort London entices me with its noir design and nautical fragrance compositions. My first experience with this niche fragrance house was Coeur de Noir, a dark fragrance, a burning shipwreck in a bottle.

To my surprise, Lignum Vitae has a fresh citrus opening that does not evoke images of the sea. But being an avid lover of sweet gourmand citruses, Lignum Vitae is just right up my alley. 

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Unlike Davana & Vanille Bourbon by 100Bon, Unknown Pleasures by Kerosene and Falling Into the Sea by Imaginary Authors, Lignum Vitae has a charismatic masculine middle note that makes it stand out.

In contrast to the inviting fresh opening note, a slight leather undertone keeps the fragrance from leaning too feminine, balancing perfectly on the edge of unisex.
Wearing this fragrance, I experienced that female noses found this scent more masculine on me, whereas male noses said it smelled very feminine.

The dry down revealed a sweet lemon gummy bear with herbal notes of aromatic greens and slight notes of salt and marine, absolutely delicious.

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On paper, Lignum Vitae remains lighter, whereas it deepens and reveals a wonderful concoction of notes on my skin. It is a perfect fragrance for spring, but it is surprisingly fitting autumn and winter too.

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My only qualm with this fragrance is that it lacks the BeauFort London edge, a spearing note that evokes an image of the rough sea. The slight marine undertone is too vague and fades among the powerful citruses and sweet vanilla. I would love to add Lignum Vitae to my collection, but I find myself at a loss of reason when I already have Unknown Pleasures, Davana & Vanille Bourbon and Remarkable People, all wonderful and different fresh cistruses. 

Remarkable People by Etat Libre d'Orange

Photosource: Créme de la Créme

Remarkable People has a sparkling and light opening of citrus and champagne, absolutely delicious, but the sweetness is fairly juvenile, almost like bubble gum, but it isn't childish.

Though not at all similar, Remarkable People reminds me of Davana & Vanille Bourbon by 100Bon, they are equally as potent in citrus as they are sweet.

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After dry down, the fragrance reveals a spicier middle note of slight sandalwood and even slighter cardamom. It might not even be fair to review it in late autumn, early winter, because this fragrance is made for spring!

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Remarkable People seems to me leaning more feminine, but the more I smell it, the more I gravitate towards it leaning more masculine. Very strange.
On paper, Remarkable People remains far more fresh with citrus, but with a slight soap quality. Here it is a definite feminine fragrance, I am very surprised by how interchangeable it is. Quite remarkable (pun intended).

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If you are looking for a sparkling, sweet fragrance, this is the fragrance for you. I cannot imagine many disliking it. However, the longevity is quite poor, on me anyhow, which makes it perfect for everyday office wear for some, but I wish it would last longer, I prefer my fragrances stronger.

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Revisiting the fragrance the other day, I found it definitely leaning masculine, like a light college year's cologne. For a moment I was reconsidering whether I should have purchased it, but I will wear it as soon as springtime comes or maybe on a sparkling night out.

Shalimar EdT by Guerlain Paris

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

Shalimar by Guerlain is the first blind purchase I made based on reviews and the hype that the fragrance has in the community. Though there were many options, the eau de toilette, eau de perfume and remakes, I opted for the eau de toilette hoping for the best.

Mistake.

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Reviews had me believing that Shalimar is a delicious gourmand vanilla, but though vanilla is the main accord, it is far from being the best gourmand vanilla I have tried.

If you are a 90's kid like me, you will know what I mean when I say that Shalimar EdT smells like the perfume that your mom and her friends used to smell like back when Trésor by Lancome was the fragrance everyone wanted to have.

I remember once offending a woman wearing Trésor; I was bluntly honest back then as I am now, saying she smelled like 'an old lady' when she gave me her wrist to smell. I might have phrased differently today, but hopefully I am not offending anyone if I say that Shalimar EdT is an old lady perfume, it has the same generic line up of notes.

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The dry down on paper is a very nostalgic vanilla, yet still with an old lady twist.
On my skin, Shalimar is much more sharp at first spray, but after dry down, it becomes more powdery and with notes of iris. It reminds me of how a Bourjois blush smells like, yet another nostalgic memory from my childhood.

I understand the appeal that this fragrance has, but it just isn't up my alley.

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Shalimar is the first perfume I blind bought based on reviews and I say 'never again'! Shalimar EdT is a perfume that smells like... well, perfume. Hear me out. This is how a fragrance would smell like if it had to sum up how fragrances smell like to someone who's never smelled one before (a strictly theoretical idea). It is so generic, it has vanilla in it as so many popular fragrances have and nothing about it makes it a fragrance someone wouldn't say is bad.

Mind you, I am only reviewing the eau de toilette version of Shalimar, but I will be steering clear from the others too. I just prefer my vanilla fragrances with a little twist.

Delina by Parfums de Marly

Photosource: Scentstore

Since venturing into the community of fragrance enthusiasts and reviewers, Parfums de Marly has been one of the most recurring fragrances in my feed.
I had never heard about this fragrance house prior to that.
The rave had me interested, but the pink, plastic-looking and very feminine bottle design had me doing U-turns avoiding it at all costs.

I was creating my own sample set for purchase and among classics like Baccarat Rouge 540 and Oud for Greatness, I sneaked in Delina, just out of curiosity.

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Delina by Parfums de Marly is a light and quite fresh floral fragrance. I cannot distinguish any specific notes except rose. To be frank, it is an absolute disappointment. I understand why most people like it, florals are usually pleasing to everyone, but not me, which makes me more critical. What positive words I do have to say about Delina, is that it has a potent longevity and I could smell it on my skin all day. 

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The opening note is a fresh floral, but the dry down revealed a soap quality to the fragrance that had me smelling like I just had taken a bath with a bar of rose soap. Comically enough, not liquid soap, but a realistic scent of a bar of soap. Oddly specific. Close to the skin, Delina is a little sweeter, but the whiffs I got during the day made me frown in displeasement.

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I read reviews and searched for the note composition, which to my surprise had many other elements aside from florals, but my nose only caught the smell of a wild rose Walther Rau bar soap. 

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It is not the first time that I find myself not liking a community favourite, always a trick to be the odd one out, but I stay true to my words and thoughts and Delina will not be revisited by me anytime soon.

Unforsaken by Kerosene

Photosource: Kerosene

Before publishing any reviews, I ordered a handful of samples of Kerosene fragrances wanting to learn about the niche fragrance house by John Pegg.

I quickly found my favourites, such as Follow and Unknown Pleasures, but Unforsaken seemed to me too common in comparison to all the other fragrances.

Powerful Blackmail, sweet Unknown Pleasures and perfectly gourmand Follow made the floral and delicate Unforsaken fade into the crowd. A couple of days ago I chose to revisit Unforsaken and my opinion has changed immensely.

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Unforsaken has a fresh opening, yet a bitter rind note keeps the fragrance earthy. It has a very strong resemblance to Monoi eau de Vahines by Yves Rocher; a white floral, sweet and coconutty fragrance. However, comparing the two, they are quite different; Monoi being richer in vanilla and more fruity and Unforsaken smelling rich and more composed. The resemblance makes me detect tiaré in Unforsaken though it's not there.

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The opening note of Unforsaken is a fresh yuzu with juicy meat and rind. The tiaré is probably a mixture of the orange blossom, jasmine and coconut, but despite the note composition, Unforsaken is not a tropical fragrance.

The dry down reveals a mild citrus, almost undetectable, slight note of vanilla and white floral as the main accord. It is an absolutely beautiful fragrance, warm and enticing, but it lacks that Kerosene character that initially made me love the house.

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I wore Unforsaken and it had been lingering on my skin all day. It is absolutely wonderful, I get whiffs of it now and again and I have fallen in love with this delicately exotic floral. Unforsaken is a perfect everyday fragrance and as of now, I just have to have it in my collection!

Decisions, Decisions by Imaginary Authors

Photosource: Fragrantica


Decisions, Decisions opens with a blast of sweet jasmine and hints of incense, but mind you that is on paper...
I have tried this fragrance before, some time ago, and back then I quickly thought to myself "this is not for me". Today I was left with only a few drops left, enough for me to wear it as my scent of the day and for a test strip.

Decisions, Decisions, just like back then, has a comical resemblance to the smell of pickles on my skin at the opening notes. It is rare that fragrances perform the same on paper as they do on my skin, but Decisions, Decisions is much the same besides the strong resemblance to sour cucumbers.

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I remember last time I tried it that I wasn't thrown aback like I usually am with fragrances from the house of Imaginary Authors. 
Decisions, Decisions is a pleasant fragrance after dry down, the quality is great and the scent is perfectly balanced, but it lacks the Imaginary Authors pezaz!
If I owned this I would absolutely wear it; it is sweet, flavourful and perfect for autumn and winter, but I have so many other fragrances, more unique, on my wishlist that stand out more from my collection.

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When all is said and done, I have been taking sneak whiffs off my wrists all day long. Decisions, Decisions has enamoured me so much that I choose to forget the initial opening note of doom. It is a perfect everyday 'don't make a scene' fragrance. The more I smell it, the more I want it!

Let's rewind. Yes, Decisions, Decisions has an opening note of sour pickles; not exactly what I care to smell like, but after dry down the fragrance becomes a gorgeous intoxicating labdanum, which is ever so lightly sweet. My nose does not catch on to too many white florals despite the composition, in actuality, Decisions, Decisions is quite lactonic with amber undertones.

Composed of tuberose, sarsaparilla, geranium, labdanum, jasmine sambac, raspberries and sweet suspense, I only miss the fruitiness of the raspberries in Decisions, Decisions.

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Though I stand by and agree with my prior review of Decisions, Decisions before my time reviewing fragrances on here, I have completely changed my regard for it.
I absolutely adore it for what it is and would love to add it to my collection.
Who would have thought that I would ever love a fragrance that smells like pickles... Not me.

Babylon by Penhaligon's

Photosource: Penhaligon's

The beautiful Trade Routes range from Penhaligon's came to my attention when I was visiting a friend in Warsaw.
I went on a short trip, because a whole year without seeing that beautiful city and my dear friends is unthinkable.

I went to Galilu, a perfumery, where the Trade Routes range caught my eye immediately and so did Babylon.

As if destiny, both the bottle and the scent where the most mesmerising of them all.

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Babylon is a gorgeous gourmand, crisp in its opening notes, but also deliciously sweet. It has a notable resemblance to Santal Carmin by Atelier Cologne, because of the prominent notes of sandalwood and saffron.

On paper, Babylon remains more fresh and crisp, whereas the fragrance quickly deepens on my skin and becomes more of a spicy gourmand rich with vanilla.

Babylon is what I wished Santal Carmin to be. Santal Carmin is a quite monotone and singular smelling fragrance of sandalwood and saffron, easily becoming nauseating. Babylon, on the other hand, remains a spicy, exotic and gorgeous vanilla with complementing notes of sandalwood and saffron in perfect balance.

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When I first tried Babylon back in Warsaw, I was wearing a perfume (of course) and only tried it on a paper strip. I carried that strip in my purse all week and it kept smelling wonderfully, so much so that I was confident I had to have this fragrance at some point. 

Trying the fragrance on my skin has made me doubt whether the formulation is for me. Twelve hours after spraying both myself and a paper strip, the strip still smells just as great as it did this morning, whereas Babylon is nowhere to be found on my skin after just two hours.

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The same evening, I sprayed my wrists once again and the opening note of Babylon is surprisingly that of citrus even though it does not appear to be in the composition. Cedar and cypriol oil give the fragrance a fresh and uplifting note without making the fragrance too green or woody. Vanilla, sandalwood and saffron are what define Babylon and make it an oriental, sensual and exotic fragrance.

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I had to wear Babylon once again before writing my final review, I just could not accept that it performed so poorly on me.

I doused myself in Babylon the next morning, two sprays on the wrists, two on my décolletage. It might not sound like a lot, but on me that's enough compared with the performance of my other fragrances.

This time Babylon remained more noticeable on my skin, but unfortunately not enough. Three or four hours in it was only detectable on my wrists at very close range. What a pity!

Telegrama by Imaginary Authors

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

Spending more time at home as the days become colder, invites me to read far more than I have during summer. I have dusted off my bookshelves and reached for endless amounts of adventures, short stories and real life experiences written into words.

The powderiness of dust, the dryness of paper both remind me of the unique fragrance, Telegrama, by Imaginary Authors.

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Telegrama sets you off to a distant place where words from your loved ones can only reach you by paper. The fragrance has a cologne, masculine and herbal opening, which turns into a field of lavender with powdery talc. There is a tingling accord of white pepper and after dry down, vanilla and amyris sweeten up the fragrance turning it rather androgynous.

Telegrama is perhaps the most masculine fragrance in my collection, it is very herbal and I had to revisit it, to truly fall in love with it. On my skin, Telegrama sweetens up after dry down quite a bit as fragrances usually do and it has an amazing transition from start to finish. Once again, Imaginary Authors manage to make a remarkable blend and put a story into a fragrance.

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Closing my eyes, I imagine myself walking in a wooden summer house cabin, looking through dusty books on the shelf, one has a bouquet of dried flowers in between the pages. A love story, long forgotten.

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Telegrama remains very light despite strong notes of woodyness, lavender, talc and pepper, almost like stepping into an old apothecary. On paper it remains much the same, quite masculine, but on my skin it becomes more gourmand and the warm vanilla is the closing act of the fragrance.

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Telegrama is a gem, it is nothing like the other fragrances that I have. 

Herbal, strong yet light, masculine yet feminine, it is a perfect late summer fragrance and it invites you to reach for a pen and paper yourself.

Halfeti by Penhaligon's

Photosource: Penhaligon's

Halfeti by Penhaligon's is a superb oud. It is an amazingly balanced unisex fragrance; it is neither too feminine nor too masculine.
The fragrance has noticeable notes of cypress, oud and cedar. It is very light despite being so wood-heavy.

Halfeti reminds me of going mushroom hunting in late September, in the early hours of the morning when the forest is still foggy and cold. The crisp morning air and pine trees are bottled up in this notorious fragrance.

The base of vanilla and tonka isn't overbearing, to me it is hardly noticeable, but the sweet gourmands accompanied by the lightness of bergamot are what keeps this oud fragrance in check for me.

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On my skin, Halfeti opens with a strong liquorice note, not my favourite. The fragrance is much more masculine and I am quite surprised how differently it performs on paper than on my skin. After dry down, Halfeti is an elegant oud and a couple of hours in, it sweetens up and the vanilla becomes the main accord along with leather and saffron.

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On paper, the fragrance deepens as well over time. Saffron gives the fragrance an element that I also find leaning more towards a masculine fragrance, especially in combination with all the other notes.

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It is no wonder that Halfeti is so famous, it is a beautiful, continuously evolving fragrance, but it performs very differently on skin than on paper, which is why I would recommend trying it on yourself first.

Be forewarned, you cannot help but love it.

Unknown Pleasures by Kerosene

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)


Unknown Pleasures by Kerosene fragrances is one of the most memorable fragrances in my perfume collection at the moment.
The fragrance is a wonderful gourmand fitting the season of autumn with its comforting notes of tea, sweet caramel and zesty lemon perfectly.
I imagine myself coming home to a warm cup of Earl Grey tea with sugar and freshly squeezed lemon after a long walk in the park.

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The opening act of Unknown Pleasures is lemon, freshly cut, zesty and ripe. Earl Grey lingers close behind, but the mouthwatering cane sugar, sweet like caramel, powers through and is as dominant as the lemon. A perfect balance between sweet and sour.

Over time, the fragrance smells like the tea my mother used to make, which was equally sweet as it was zesty.

Be careful with this one, it is a powerful fragrance and one spray on the wrist is enough.

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The house of Kerosene is what I love about niche fragrances; though they are very complex, they have a wonderful transparency - all the notes are distinguishable from each other, realistic like Hell, yet blended to perfection. You are instantly transported to a place, a city, a memory or a dream.

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After oxidation, Unknown Pleasures remains mostly the same, but the fragrance notes resemble that of a real tea moment impeccably.
You've poured hot water into your cup, the tea steeps and its aroma comforts you. You stir in a teaspoon of cane sugar. Then, cutting into the lemon, the oils in its zest overpowers it all - that is the first impression and initial composition of Unknown Pleasures.
However, like a cup of tea, overtime the lemon isn't as powerful, the beverage cools down as you wait for it to be drinkable. The sugar has fully melted, cane sugar gives the tea a slight caramel taste, the tea has steeped long enough and you are ready to comfort yourself with it.

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Unknown Pleasures is an absolute dream. It might not be in everyone's taste, but you cannot refute this fragrance's immaculate composition.

Mon Evidence by Yves Rocher

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

Though Mon Evidence by Yves Rocher is a spring fragrance, it was perfect this sunny autumn morning. The air was crisp like it is in early spring and the sun was shining warming up the city. 

This fragrance became a part of my collection by chance - I received it as a gift from Yves Rocher and though my initial reaction wasn't positive, I am happy that I can reach for this amazing fragrance when the mood strikes me.

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Mon Evidence has a light and brisk floral bouquet opening. I had to smell it a couple of times before I could distinguish it's fresh note as citrus. Unlike niche fragrances, generic fragrances are always difficult for me to separate into their respective notes; to me they are always fused mixtures that do not have strong charismatic note that stand out.

I have never been an admirer of floral fragrances, which is why I initially thought nothing of this fragrance and why many popular fragrances are lost on me. I gave it a go, but wasn't enamoured, so I left it on a shelf thinking I could gift it to whoever visits me and who would love to take it home.
I am glad that that never happened.

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Mon Evidence is supposed to be a rose and patchouli fragrance, both very dominant notes, but in actuality it is a very fresh, light, spring floral; like going through the park in early spring when the flowers are beginning to bloom and the weather is quite cold with the morning dew still lingering on the foliage.

Bergamot is the opening act of Mon Evidence, then a bouquet of jasmine, orange blossom and rose is revealed, behind this very feminine floral fragrance profile is deepening vanilla giving the fragrance it's sweetness in perfect balance.

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Sometimes you have to revisit a fragrance to experience its full potential, that was certainly the case with Mon Evidence, the only floral fragrance I see myself wearing and repurchasing every spring.