Santalum Slivers by Kerosene

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

With the tiniest amount of fragrance left in my sample, I won't be reviewing this one on paper, which I recently have been loving doing again, but alas, I won't waste any of my precious Kerosene.

~

Santalum Slivers, at the opening, is a juicy and ripe lime; tart and mouth watering, but the fragrance soon becomes a little greener.

Few houses make citrus fragrances like John Pegg. The lime in Santalum Slivers is just too realistic, it's beautiful!

I just decanted Remarkable People by Etat Libre d' Orange and have that lingering in my memory, both fragrances are fresh and aromatic, but RP becomes a little like teenage cologne and is somewhat sweeter, whereas Santalum Slivers remains a citrus bomb with aromatic notes from vetiver and a slight note of hay.

~

Even though the citruses stated are lemon, grapefruit, orange and bergamot, I smell lime. I could be persuaded to say bergamot, but the other citruses have far too much sweetness in them than is in Santalum Slivers. 

Though I like my citruses with a hint of sweetness, I have to say that Santalum Slivers is thee citrus fragrance out there. It is realistic, to the tee. This fragrance along with Falling Into the Sea are the creme de la creme of citrus perfumery.
As far as I have tried. Hands down, I bow in awe.

~

If you like your citruses with a sprinkle of sweetness, than go for Falling Into the Sea. If you like equally as sweet as tart, go for Davana & Vanille Bourbon from 100Bon. If you like your citruses with five cubes of sugar, than Unknown Pleasures is the right fragrance for you.

Tangier Vanille by Aerin Lauder

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

 I was browsing second hand goods when I stumbled on a photo of five beautiful bottles of perfume. You guessed it, it was Aerin Lauder. The crystal cap, glass bottles and golden details caught my eye like a magpies (an old saying in Polish that magpies steal everything that shines. I was searching for the English word and to my surprise, scientists have now debunked that magpies aren't thieves at all). Anywho, someone was selling these eye-catching perfumes, but I had never heard of fragrances from Aerin and I have learned my lesson when buying blind. So I found my local retailer first.

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I talked with the lady at the stand for so long and found a kindred lover of fragrances. I don't find these often, so we had many laughs and I recommended her a handful of niche fragrances, whereas she told me the story of Aerin. I won't be getting into it in this review, because it's already becoming too long (and I haven't even started yet). I sniffed and smelled them all, and I must say that I wasn't head over heels. The scents were pretty, but quite safe and boring. So I grabbed a sample of Limone di Sicilia and Tangier Vanille (wow, what a surprise, a citrus and a vanilla! You know my obsession by now). Enough chatting, so how does Tangier Vanille smell like?

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I have smelled many vanillas. So many, that I have an unnamed categorisation of them in my head. Tangier Vanille falls into the one that I have the most difficulties with. If you remember my review of Vanille Gourmande by Florame, it is a type of vanilla that is very realistic and gourmand, but has a plastic or even modeling clay scent about it. As soon as I find it, I cannot look past it and detect other notes. The composition of Tangier Vanille is that of sandalwood and musk at the base, amber in the middle; and vanilla, bergamot and rose at the top. In Vanille Gourmande, the carrot was the culprit. In Tangier Vanille, I sense that it is the very slight note of sandalwood that causes the plastic scent. I love sandalwood and usually a perfume only gains from having it, but I feel like it is a fine balance of the type of vanilla used in TV and the ever so slight warm spiciness from the sandalwood that causes this unfortunate quality.

~

I have had TV on the skin for about an hour now and some reviews I have read in the meantime have warped my impression of it. Some sense a cherry note, like that of Lost Cherry, and I must say that I also get a slight cherry now, but it is what I found to be the scent of modeling clay from the beginning. I would not ever say that TV has the gorgeous note of cherry like that of LC. It is like that of a child toy, a fake and nauseating scent of cherry.

~

TV is weird. Yeah, I said it. I keep sniffing my wrists trying to find the appeal that other reviewers found, but I only find myself wanting to wash it off. It is a scent I wouldn't like to be caught in and I am due for work in an hour or so. Tangier Vanille smells like a teenage magazine fragrance. Like something from the 90's (which isn't an insult in itself, I'm from the 90's and I just remember scents like these being around). I am at a loss for words and maybe that's good, because this review is long enough. I just hope that Limone di Sicilia has something better in store for me.

Expressive Gold by Commodity

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

"While we were fast asleep on the couch, the Tooth Fairy came by and gave us in exchange for our lost tooth a piece of Gold."

At the finish line I am quite excited. Not only was I looking forward to trying Gold, but smelling this will also define which Commodity fragrance I will consider buying.

~

On paper, I am met by a gorgeous scent, but I'm also experiencing déjà vu. Gold has the same scent profile as Milk and Velvet. Sweet, creamy, warm. That in itself is quite anticlimactic. Don't get me wrong, the fragrance is gorgeous, but I have been smelling something similar for the last couple of days. 

So how is it on the skin? Hopefully like Velvet, very different from on paper.

~

Oh yes, on skin there is a fresher minty note at top (the juniper berries). It evaporates after a minute, but it lingers after the scent has dried down. 

A couple of minutes in and I almost cannot smell it anymore. What is it in Commodity fragrances that is so incompatible with my chemistry?

I love the contrast of the juniper with the warm, sweet vanilla and amber, but to experience it, I have to reapply it many times within just half an hour!

~

I honestly thought my choice would be a battle between Milk and Gold, but reaching back in my memory, I am leaning more towards Velvet and Milk.

Gold is a wonderful fragrance if you can smell it. 
However, my Commodity journey was supposed to finish with a bang, but it ended up with a fizzle. 

Expressive Velvet by Commodity

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

 "Our bellies full, we've stumbled off the kitchen chair and laid ourselves on auntie's old couch draped with Velvet.".

Velvet has the same mouthwatering sweetness as did Milk. They are quite similar on paper, but the sweetness soon fades into the background in Velvet and the warmth is left almost alone. However, a surprising note suddenly appears. After dry down, a hint of rose mingles with the creaminess of vanilla bean and amber. Though you know my stance on rose, I must say that it is doing something good for Velvet. Without the rose, it would feel like a copy of Milk.
That's all on paper, though, so how does it perform on skin?

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On skin, Velvet opens with the same sweetness as on paper, but I also get a hint of rose already and a deep contrasting smokiness. And that's all before dry down!

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After Velvet has dried off, it has a rich leather or maybe even suede undertone that dominates it. A completely different fragrance than on paper!

It leans definitely masculine and at this stage, it should be called Leather if you ask me. This fragrance reminds me of something else, some fragrance that I have reviewed not long ago. The more I try to reach for a memory of which perfume it was, the more I cannot grasp it, so let's put it vaguely - it reminds me of an Imaginary Authors perfume (maybe Whispered Myths) or a Beaufort London perfume (maybe Coeur de Noir) or even a Kerosene (maybe Broken Theories), but I digress!

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Velvet is hard for me to like or dislike, I think it's beautiful, but on skin it suits autumn and winter more, whereas on paper it is a wonderful spring fragrance! 

The reason why I think I love it, is because it resembles so many fragrances I like. Call me crazy, but I even get a hint of By the Fireplace just less sweet, less woody, more sour, like the smell of burnt wood.

I could smell it on me all day at work and the sillage was perfectly subtle. Velvet was a beautiful reminder of itself all day.

Commodity, you are teasing me!

Expressive Milk by Commodity

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

"After a long day of fun outside full of adventures in the woods, we have come home to a plate of cookies and a glass of Milk."

Milk and Gold are the main reasons why I was so curious to try Commodity fragrances and I must say that just after one spray on paper, I know I'm going to love Milk!

Sweet and creamy, like vanilla ice cream, but warm and cozy, like a baked dessert, Milk is a delicious gourmand amber. I wouldn't say that the milk note is too lactonic, it just makes the scent perfectly creamy.

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On skin, I don't even need to smell my wrists, I can smell the velvety, creamy sweetness from afar. I would prefer to start comparing Milk to other fragrances at the end of the review, but I just have to say that Milk is the same type of fragrance as A Whiff of Waffle Cone from Imaginary Authors (and to my dismay, I cannot get my hands on AWOWC, so Milk might step in instead).

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After dry down, Milk acts just like the previous fragrances I have reviewed from Commodity, quite mild and mostly close to the skin. I would have never thought I should have gotten the Bold series instead of Expressive!

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How do I describe Milk without making it sound too edible? Imagine warming up some milk, not skimmed, but full fat, from a local milkman. You sprinkle in some vanilla bean, maybe about half a pod, and then, to sweeten it up, a marshmallow or two. But here's the twist! It's not too gourmand, it's not too sweet or cloying. Milk is just right!

And the thing is, Milk sounds like it would be an autumn and winter fragrance only, but it is actually quite wearable for spring too. Even on cold summer nights.

~

Milk is very similar on paper as on skin, just lighter of course. 

One thought I do have is that I absolutely love this fragrance and would love to have it, but I'm wondering how often I am going to reach for it. It's not that the scent is juvenile, surprisingly not at all, but it is a sweet sweet scent. Do I want to walk around and smell like cupcakes?

The answer is yes, yes I do. I could smell myself all day, faintly, but still and it was absolutely lovely.

Expressive Moss by Commodity

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

"Now that class is over, lets venture out into the woods, where the daily rain has made Moss grow."

The opening note of Moss is so juicy and ripe! It reminds me of so many well made citruses. Think Atelier Cologne. I love everything citrus, you know that.

Give me verveine, give me lemon, petitgrain, give me all that sour freshness!

To make it wearable and not smell like a bathroom air refreshener, is an art in itself.

Still just on paper, Moss goes from fresh bergamot to juicy grapefruit, like scratching the skin of a pink grapefruit sprinkled with some sugar. 

I expected Moss to be earthy, wet and crisp in its entirety, but it is a fresh, juicy, summer fragrance that reminds me of Falling Into the Sea by Imaginary Authors. So let's give this one a go on my skin!

~

Oh no... I do NOT have the funds to buy more than one Commodity fragrance! 

On skin, Moss is just perfectly sweet and fresh, just how I like 'em! The green notes are more prominent and rather than grapefruit and bergamot, petitgrain and orange blossom are at the forefront.

~

After dry down, I am more calm that Commodity fragrances won't be my ruin. Moss is still wonderful and a great citrus, green, fresh fragrance, but as the other Commodity fragrances, it has lightened up a whole lot and I need more charisma than this.

Another thing I might add is, very surprisingly, Moss is far more sweet and feminine on paper than on my skin. It is usually the other way around. On paper, Moss smells like a pink grapefruit lemonade, sparkling, sweet and zesty.

On my skin, it is far more green and aromatic. I am not strong with some notes that I haven't smelled individually, and oakmoss is one of them. I therefore don't know whether I smell this note in particular, but though I enjoy it, I am not wow'ed. 

Expressive Paper by Commodity

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

 "Come on now kids, school is still in session! Bring in your assignments.
It's time to get it on Paper!"

Transitioning from Book to Paper, I am expecting a dry and powdery fragrance. 

~

On paper, Paper is smooth, warm, sensual, deep and everything I love in fragrances like these. The fragrance loses some of that deepness soon after spraying. And two minutes in, the fragrance has largely disappeared, what is left is a mild note that is light, somewhat synthetic, but still ambery. For some reason it reminds me of the smell of a plastic doll head. We are not off to a good start.

~

On skin, however, the fragrance surprisingly doesn't have the same amber opening that was smooth, warm and sensual. It is in fact more like the dry down, synthetic and harsh. Oof! A minute or two in, Paper has largely disappeared once again, but according to the Commodity pamphlet it was to be expected. I quote "Paper celebrates sandalwood as a skin scent thanks to Iso E Super. The Iso E Super plays off the natural scent of one's skin for a soft sandalwood trail that is truly unique", so I'm getting Zarkoperfumes molecule flashbacks!

~

After complete oxidation, Paper is just but a hint on my skin of something slightly ambery. On paper, it is gone. However, I couldn't smell Molecule 234.38 on myself either, whereas others could, so my nose might be blind to the whole Iso E Super magic.

Besides the slight plastic note, Paper smells like nothing to me, ironically, basically of paper. 

Expressive Book by Commodity

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

Let me start by saying that sitting here with the Commodity discovery set, the pamphlet, the paper strips with the fragrance names on them, feels so exciting, almost like a school assignment! 

So, I think I'll start off this journey with the aptly named scent, Book.

Let me preface by saying that the whole discovery set, when opened, has an enticing smell. Almost like that of BR540; creamy, velvety, just delicious.

Before reading the notes in the pamphlet, Book, to me, has a fresh opening note. Not quite like that of citrus, just a tad, but of a freshly cleaned bathroom. The clean note isn't harsh or chemical, but smooth and inviting, like that of air dried laundry.

For some reason the name "Book" made me think of old books, stale and dusty in their scent, but the fragrance is more like that of a new book, crisp and fresh. Over time the fragrance warms up, but it is still very refreshing and not heavy, like I thought it would be.

After a proper dry down, still just on paper, Book becomes quite masculine-leaning, almost like a cologne. Not a teenage cologne, not a designer fragrance in-your-face-cologne, but a sophisticated and elegant one.

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Before spraying it on myself, I did take a sneak peak of the notes and I definitely get eucalyptus at top! However, almost immediately, a deep amber and musk appear, which hasn't even shown up on the paper strip yet. I also get a nice amount of cedarwood.

Book goes through quick phases and right now, from the fresh cedar and warm amber, I am getting rich amyris and a slight hint of sandalwood.

This fragrance is just like reading a book! It tells a story and switches up on you now and again.

After complete oxidation, Book lingers like a story after a finished read (I'm just dishing out those metaphors). It is warm and comforting, not like I would have imagined a book-inspired fragrance to smell like, but it creates the same comforting illusion as sitting on a soft old couch reading an exciting story.

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Though lovely and enjoyable, I must say that I find Book to be too faint. It disappears on me, but it is a gorgeously blended fragrance. I can smell it on me close to the wrist, where it really shines. This is a very good start and I cannot wait to continue exploring!

Walk the Sea by Kerosene

 

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

Walk the Sea is not new to me, back when I discovered the house of Kerosene I went full speed and ordered any sample I could get my hands on.

One of them was Walk the Sea. My expectations were high, because I was hungry for a fragrance that had a realistic note of salt in it. Olympéa by Paco Rabanne and Wood Sage & Sea Salt by Jo Malone had already disappointed me.

I remember that Walk the Sea wasn't as salty as I wanted it to be, but I also found it floral rather than marine back then. Revisiting it is quite exciting, because I have had very different experiences with fragrances after revisiting them now that my journey in the fragrance world has been going on for a hot while.

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Walk the Sea smells like warm sand, it is deep and ambiguous in its scent. Quickly, a white floral fragrance appears and it reminds me a lot of Monoi by Yves Rocher. So much so that I am convinced Walk the Sea is based on tiare.

The ambergris is dominating, yet subtle. I think it's because there are so few notes to detect in this fragrance.

I would dare to call it an animalic floral, if that's even a thing. Is Walk the Sea salty then? Not really, so I am!

~

Walt the Sea has an ever so slight note of salt, because of its ambergris and warm sand fragrance. The note of salt is more an idea and illusion than an actual note.

I have been looking for a spring to summer fragrance, and I must say that this is a great candidate. It is warm, somewhat sweet, but not too much so that it becomes too summery. Walk the Sea is a very pleasant scent that I find many would like. All day, I could sense the ambergris around me and I wouldn't mind smelling like this in spring.

Thé Yulong by Armani Privé

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

I've always had a desire to find the perfect tea fragrance. I have tried Oolang Infini from Atelier Cologne; I have, in my collection, Thé Blanc from Collines de Provence, but I haven't been satisfied. Oolang Infini wasn't it for me and Thé Blanc is unfortunately not that long lasting. I've tried many tea scents, but I was inspired to try Thé Yulong from Armani due to a praising review, but it was Soie de Nacre, a different flanker of Thé Yulong. It was a risk I was willing to take.

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Thé Yulong, on paper, has a juicy, but also tangy note of citrus. Not quite mandarin, as stated in the composition, but after dry down the citrus loses its tanginess and becomes more like tangerine or orange rather than lemon or lime. The tea note is not as prominent as I thought it would be, but it is green and creates an illusion of smelling a freshly brewed iced tea. It does, however, miss the sweetness that Thé Blanc has. Thé Yulong is a skinny version of a sweet tea!

Surprisingly, over time, the scent becomes sweeter.

~

On skin, the fragrance is just like on paper - a fresh citrus with green notes. For some reason, I am more aware of how generic this fragrance is, almost like an air refreshener. No depth or sweetness balances Thé Yulong to make it more rich or likable. It is flat and boring. After dry down and a couple of hours in, Thé Yulong has a slight sweetness from jasmin and remains quite green. 

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I don't know how, but I've missed the fact that Thé Yulong is an eau de toilette and not an eau de parfum! 

After dry down, on paper, the fragrance loses its natural notes and smells quite synthetic. On skin it is very faint and is an unisex green scent that is very inoffensive. I cannot imagine anyone disliking it, but there is nothing to love either.

Unfortunately, this fragrance is not what I expected and my search for the perfect spring to summer scent continuous. 

Molécule 234.38 by Zarkoperfumes

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

A couple of days ago I reviewed Youth by Zarkoperfumes and I only found it proper, to let you know about Molécule 234.38 too. Why? Because it is one of those fragrances that are too special and interesting to pass by. Juliette Has A Gun has been on my feed for a hot while and I don't know why, but I couldn't be less interested. The bottle designs do not appeal to me, the ones I have smelled haven't interested me in the slightest, the only thing I do recall is that Juliette Has A Gun also has a molecule fragrance. I went off on a tangent for no reason, but I just wanted to let people know, that if you can't get your hands on Molécule 234.38, that JHAG also has an option.

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Anywho, in the words of the brand itself: “MOLéCULE 234.38 is based on one, big molecule as the dominating ingredient. The molecule interacts with ones own pheromones - in a sense making it more of a phenomenon than an actual fragrance. The composition of the molecule, as well as it's weight, corresponds with the temperature of body and surroundings, making it an active part of the fragrance. The fragrance will evolve and retract continuously over a period of ten hours. The main challenge in creating this phenomenon, was to combine completely contradictory molecules, that when combined adapts to the person wearing it - the person's state of mind, physical condition, and the surroundings. This deeply personal interaction creates a highly sensual fragrance that is as unique, and as lovely, as each person wearing it. A love affair of a lifetime”

If that doesn't sound interesting, and slightly ego-trippy (a fragrance that smells special to me and no one can smell the same? Ego boosted!) than I don't know what is! So how did it smell on me? Let's go...

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At first spray, or should I start by saying that straight from the decanter, Molécule 234.38 doesn't have any smell at all. When on skin, the fragrance starts to appear. On me, it gets a very Baccarat Rouge 540-esque vibe. I get some fir and some smooth velvety notes, but not even half a minute in, the fragrance is elusive. It is in fact gone. I cannot smell anything besides that elusive hint of BR540 somewhere in the air, but sniffing my wrist, there is nothing there!

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I let the fragrance do its magic. According to Zarko, the fragrance retracts and evolves continuously over a period of ten hours. Where I'm at in my cycle also determines this fragrance, which makes this review obsolete in about a week. After dry down, Molécule 234.38 remains an elusive version of BR540 or even Oud for Greatness, something in between. However, it is as if I put one of those fragrances on and quickly washed it off. What's left is just the hint that it was there.

Molécule 234.38 is just as elusive as my photo - I had the Youth bottle at hand and just a sample of Molécule 234.38, so I hid the name and boom, you might think it's Molécule 234.38!

After hours of wear, nothing changes, the scent remains a faint hint at BR540. However, my co-worker said she could distinctly smell fragrance on me and that it was lovely, but she doesn't know BR540 and I couldn't tell me if it smelled the same to her too.

It is part of the molecule magic, but I need to smell my own perfume, which is why Molécule 234.38 is a pass.

Mimosa Indigo by Atelier Cologne

 

Photosource: France Gallery

Mimosa Indigo... This one won't be tested on a paper strip. I only have a small vial of approximately 2 or 3 ml and nothing can go to waste! Atelier Cologne has been pulled from my local stores and Mimosa Indigo is nowhere to be found online either, unless I order from abroad. It's safe to say, that these are golden drops.

~

It was mother's day last Sunday and I had to smell a whole lot of fragrances for the customers. All of them designer and not my taste. I came home with a tremendous headache, which I rarely have. The other day I was trying out Midnight Saffron, which also gave me a headache, and today, Mimosa Indigo has done the same. Reaching back in my memory, it never had, so I will not fault this fragrance. I have just had to smell too many fragrances in a short frame of time.

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As I remembered, Mimosa Indigo is a rich, elegant fragrance of leather. Charming, deep, seductive, but also daring. I don't see many wearing this casually! The leather is not too invasive, but it is strong. It smells like fresh leather. A handbag newly stocked on a store shelf. 

Besides a faint note of musk and mimosa, Mimosa Indigo is a pure leather fragrance. Unisex and gorgeous. You need to try it if you can! It is also worth saying that the fragrance is quite linear, it doesn't change much, on my skin, after dry down.

Plein Soleil by Yves Rocher

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

Being in a rush this morning, I quickly sprayed on Plein Soleil. It's been on my to-try list for awhile and the sunny weather seemed very fitting.

On paper, Plein Soleil had a fresh citrus opening, but with a sweet subtle fig fruit note. Something unfamiliar gave the fragrance a depth that is quite nice.

On skin, the same citrus is at the opening, but the sweetness is much more prominent. Something about it is almost Amor Amor Cacharel-y, but not as pungent or as sweet. On that note, I find this fragrance reminding me of late teenage years and the fragrances I used to wear back then. That being including Amor Amor *flashbacks from high school appear*.

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Plein Soleil is quite... Plain. A little too simple for me. And I must say that the notes stated are a complete surprise to me! 

I would have never guessed cardamom or sandalwood. Those notes being so familiar and characteristic, it's quite unbelievable that they are there... However, tuberose, on me, is definitely the main note and I don't get much else after dry down. To my surprise, no citrus is in the composition at all, according to Fragrantica.

~

I hate to use the word, but Plein Soleil is very generic. An inoffensive fragrance that anyone can make as a blind buy and find an occasion for, if you like tuberose, that is. It reminds me of so many fast fashion brand fragrances (think early Zara and some H&M). Pleased to have tried it, but forgettable.

Midnight Saffron by Tom Daxon

Photosource: Ms Tantrum Blog

I was rummaging through my samples writing down which should be reviewed first based on the weather getting warmer these days. Luckily, I have only three that I would consider being too rich and deep for the spring season. between those and the ones proper for spring was Midnight Saffron by Tom Daxon. I had no idea which side it should be on, but I am missing oh so much Gris Clair by Serge Lutens that I needed to try this solely based on the fact that it had lavender in it, like Gris Clair. 

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I am back to basics when reviewing fragrances. First, I spray it on a paper piece to get the notes without my skin interfering. Only after, do I try it with my chemistry.

Midnight Saffron opens with a strong and nostalgic note of lavender. Something richer is just as much in the forefront. Saffron. Deepening and warming up the aromatic lavender. This fragrance is nothing I would chose to wear, but it is beautiful. Just like Gris Clair, I am surprised how wearable lavender is as a fragrance. For years I have been keeping lavender for sleepless nights, only spraying it in the bedroom for a calming atmosphere.

~

Before even spraying Midnight Saffron on my skin, I must say that it is slightly headache inducing after a while and I am scared for what's in store for me.

On skin, Midnight Saffron is just as rich in lavender as it is on paper, but it has a deep sweetness from the get go. The sweetness is very true to the suede in the composition and is nothing like the fragrances I have in my collection. That being said, I would never add a fragrance like this to my collection. It is far too barber shop like and there is not enough creaminess for me to make it wearable. And yes, on skin, it has provoked a thumping headache. So much so that I had to wash it off. The paper sample, now at the other end of the dining table, makes the headache persistent and Midnight Saffron becomes a very short acquaintance. Hours later, the fragrance is very masculine and sexy, yet potentially headache inducing and the next day, the paper strip has a wonderful sweetness and depth about it that I wish was the initial Midnight Saffron.

Youth by Zarkoperfumes

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

At first spray I smell coconut, pineapple and citrus. Youth by Zarkoperfume cannot be found on their own website (at the time that I am writing this review), it isn't on Fragrantica and searching for it, I only found it in a drugstore and only on that drugstores site could I find the composition too.

From what I gather, this is fairly new!

~

Zarkoperfumes are molecule perfumes, so you cannot take into account my experience, almost at all, because they are even more changeable and morphic with you chemistry and pH than 'regular' perfumes. They even change depending on weather, your hormonal cycle and so on (especially Molécule 234.38).

~

Youth is youthful! It smells wonderful, but it is definitely juvenile reminding me of summers as a young adult. First drinks at a bar, tasting daiquiris and staying all night on the beach with friends. 

After dry down, the citrus, pineapple and coconut note is gone, what stays, close to skin, is a fairly tropical sweetness.

~

Zarko, the creator of Zarkoperfumes says "a perfume is nothing without human skin" and I agree to an extent. Sometimes, a perfume is the most wonderful scent creating a peaceful and happy aura around me, but in contact with my skin, it loses its magic. However, in his world of molecular fragrances, the fragrances really do only shine when in contact with skin. The perfume will adapt and change for you and with you, making it very unique, which I love!

~

Youth, however, is faint and fleeting. I feel like it is lost on me. I would have loved to add this to my collection as I am in need of a new spring fragrance that is a little more fresh and fun. I am not sure whether I should keep it in my collection, but something about it is really fun and flirty, and the faintness is quite endearing for everyday wear.

Back to the actual notes, when reapplying it, I do get a peachy note that I found to be more pineapple-y before. The top notes are peach, pear, melon and green apple. Middle notes are jasmine, Bulgarian Otto rose, white florals and plum. Base notes are sandalwood, dream wood and a musk accord. I must say, that peach lingers after dry down and the fragrance becomes a close to skin warm musk. I do not get much of the other notes stated though. And luckily, no rose either.

~

Some hours in and the fragrance is an eau de fraiche at best, which is a shame, but I do sense a lovely fresh sweetness when searching for it, but it cannot be worth the price tag with this poor longevity on me.

What a shame!

Cape Heartache by Imaginary Authors

Photosource: Imaginary Authors

I've cosied up on a cold spring day. It's Sunday and I'm not going anywhere, so my thoughts kept going to sample fragrances that might not be that work-appropriate. My nose has become so accustomed to smelling fragrances in all shapes and sizes - good, bad, weird, unpleasant, potent, feminine, masculine, you name it, and I sometimes forget that people around me might not be ready for what's in store in niche fragrances that can smell like burned wood, ink or even blood!

~

I remembered sniffing Cape Heartache a while back and I must review it before the sample goes bad. I remembered it being quite masculine-leaning too and thought it wouldn't fly wearing it at work any time soon.

Cape Heartache is, to my surprise, different from what I remember. I have smelled it once, I have smelled it twice. Might even thrice, but I have never, and I mean never, been able to smell the strawberry that should be at the top. I even talked with fellow fraghead, Pawel from Shave My Day, who found the strawberry elusive whereas I could not smell it at all.

Lo and behold, I sprayed Cape Heartache on my wrists and the first think I could smell and have been smelling for a while, is a juicy strawberry.

It might be the fact that I'm drinking a sweet wine and the palatable sweetness enhances the olfactory sweetness in the perfume, but I love and absolutely adore the contrast of strawberry and rough fir wood that I have finally been able to smell.

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After considerable dry down, Cape Heartache reveals a base of woody notes and just a slight note of strawberry. The fragrance is still very masculine, but not as polarising as I remembered it being. A reviewer said that it smells like the scent of strawberry vapor amongst a misty forest and I couldn't agree more! I would love to smell this fragrance on a male and I am sure I can persuade my partner to wear it at some point. The masculine woodiness and sweetness from the strawberry is a wonderful mix.

Cape Heartache is, close to the skin, a resinous, smokey woody fragrance with incense-like depth and sweetness. It is somewhat synthetic, but not unpleasant. Not a love, but a definite like. 

During the day I did come to the conclusion that this fragrance can be too cloying. The deep woodiness is only close to the skin. Surprisingly, I can only smell a synthetic sweet vape strawberry on myself and only when smelling my wrist, the woodiness is detectable. 

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The next day, I sat where I was writing this review and it was as if the strawberry from Cape Heartache still lingered around. The scent, even though just from yesterday, almost felt nostalgic. Cape Heartache is an experience, one that I would love to try again!

Iris Prima by Penhaligon's

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

Iris Prima was to me a wild bet. I have not had the opportunity to get to know Penhaligon's properly. Once in a rush, I was in a store in Warsaw where I hastily smelled some of the fragrances from the Trade Routes collection.

Some weeks ago, I purchased a set of samples from the Portraits Collection, but Iris Prima I bought blindly in a hasty decision swayed by free shipping and a wonderful price, because it was pre-loved.

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A fresh citrus opening and you KNOW how much I love my citruses! Suede doesn't take long to creep in and it gives Iris Prima a deep and masculine touch. Oh how I love the contrast of the bergamot with something as rich as leather!

Iris Prima was a blind buy and I was terrified of its iris and leather base, but the way people described this fragrance had me so mesmerised and intrigued. I am so happy and so lucky that the wonderful potion from Penhaligon's is an absolute dream.

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Soft, elegant, round, mild, yet rich with suede and benzoin. Iris Prima is a feminine and elegant fragrance that shines on the cusp of a warmer spring.

I must say that I am not strong in identifying the scent of iris. I am actually not sure whether I have ever smelled a real iris before. I humble myself and must admit that I do not know whether the iris in Iris Prima is strong or not.

What I can say, is that Iris Prima is a magnificent scent. Creamy, slightly powdery musk with woody notes. I do not find it too intense, but my partner found it very rough, which I experience a lot with friends and family, who are not into fragrances like I am. 

This fragrance is gorgeous and elegant, and what I associate the house of Penhaligon's with. I cannot wait to explore my Portraits sample set and get to know it even more.