Oud for Greatness by Initio

Photosource: Creme de la Creme

I know I'm late to the party, but better late than never!

First off, if I saw this fragrance on its own, I would never have gravitated towards it.

The composition of notes just wouldn't make me think that it's a sweet, creamy scent like it is.

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I had the exact same experience with Baccarat Rouge 540, everyone was praising it, but when I saw the composition of notes, I thought it wasn't for me.

After numerous reviews saying how sexy, smooth and creamy BR540 is, I had to try it. And it was, it really was.

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I had the exact same experience with Oud for Greatness. Many praising words and a composition that sounded completely off to me. However, upon inspection, the two, Oud for Greatness and Baccarat Rouge, seemed very alike. Not note by note, but saffron at the top note of both, musk in one and ambergris in the other, cedar in BR540 and oud in Oud for Greatness. Notes that are different from each other, but at the same time somehow similar.

Now, with the sample in hand, Oud for Greatness is the same, buttery smooth, liquid gold fragrance as was BR540!

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On paper, Oud for Greatness has the same opening as BR540, but after some oxidation, the scent turns more green and light, even fresh. Correct me if I'm wrong, but almost like a fougere? (I am still learning about olfactory families).

On skin, the fragrance has a BR vibe as base, but it is topped with more woody and aromatic notes. And it is far more masculine.

A much more prominent note of fir is at the front of this fragrance, even though fir is not in the stated composition, it is stated in BR540, though! 

This fragrance is absolutely beautiful, though BR540 is more feminine, Oud for Greatness becomes just as elegant in a matter of a couple of hours. Saffron is still at the top and I keep smelling it on myself and loving every minute of it!

I must admit that I do love my BR540, but I experience a blindness to it, and I just might find myself wanting to swap it for this one...

Sable Fauve by Yves Rocher

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

Amber, vanilla, warm spicy, sweet, balsamic. Sable Fauve should be right up my alley, but I am so happy that I blind bought this fragrance in a small bottle. Though it isn't bad, it is just so forgettable that I won't be reaching for it, at all. 

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When I was inspired to purchase the Yves Rocher perfumes it was solely based on reviews, mostly Sebastian's from The Perfume Guy. I don't have an Yves Rocher store locally where I could try them out first. And I was contemplating whether to buy Sable Fauve or Nouveau Genre in a small and the other in a big bottle. I am so happy that I made the right choice!

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Sable Fauve is an ambery and sweet fragrance, but nothing stands out, no small amount of spice, no surprising note from a citrus, nothing giving it a depth like some leather or incense could do. It is a linear fragrance of tonka, benzoin and labdanum. I am actually at a loss for words, I don't think I have anything else to say about it. Maybe, that this is so light that it can still be worn in spring and summer, despite the fragrance family that it belongs to. It might even be a good layering fragrance for those that would like to add sweetness without prominent notes of e.g. vanilla, syrup or maple. Sable Fauve doesn't carry a prominent sweetness of tonka or definable note of labdanum, it is in fact just the smell of sweet. This fragrance is so faint that I wore Musc Ravageur the same day and no memory or scent of Sable Fauve was left on my skin.

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Skin chemistry has a lot to say, so this one might just not work for me, which is why it won't stay in my collection. However, I feel less like a spendthrift about purchasing Cuir de Nuit, which was also on my radar...

One last remark is that on paper the fragrance is fairly lighter, even with a citrus kick, and the scent is considerably more men's cologne like. It is too light and almost like an eau de fraiche.

Nouveau Genre by Yves Rocher

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

Almost two decades ago, my small pocket money only allowed me to buy celebrity fragrances on sale and of course, Yves Rocher. I cannot for the life of me remember which ones beside Flower Party I have had, but Flower Party was a simple floral, nothing to remember it by. Since venturing into fragrances, I have steered clear from Yves Rocher fragrances remembering them as being very floral and very simple.

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A couple of years ago, I was gifted Mon Evidence, which has its own story of neglect. I learned to love that fragrance, but I still had no hopes for the other fragrances of Yves Rocher.

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Their new collection came to my attention when joining the fragrance community and after watching and reading many reviews, I blind bought Nouveau Genre and Sable Fauve.

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Nouveau Genre instantaneously begins to transform into a fragrance that made me think of Unknown Pleasures by Kerosene. When trying Nouveau Genre for the first time, I immediately thought of a Kerosene fragrance, but I struggled to pinpoint which. After another wear, I was certain that it was my dear Unknown Pleasures though in a different vail. 

Nouveau Genre, close to the skin, is a pure raw honey fragrance, sweet, but also naturally sour. From a distance, it flutters between a fresh note of citrus, a slight note of tea and a delicious sweetness. This is why it reminds me so much of Unknown Pleasures, Nouveau Genre is a milder, more muted interpretation of the wonderfully beasty Kerosene fragrance. I only wish that this fragrance had a longer lasting power.

On paper, Nouveau Genre is a fresh and woody fragrance with a strong patchouli note. It is very similar to how it is on skin, but without the honey depth.

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I do not feel confident yet when it comes to patchouli, but from the descriptions of other fragrance enthusiasts I guess Nouveau Genre is a woodsy patchouli fragrance.

My friends always say "oh, you are wearing that delicious coconut perfume" when I'm wearing Unknown Pleasures, I do not smell coconut at all, but I've been reading and viewing reviews of Nouveau Genre and some say that they smell coconut in that too. That's such a puzzle to me! It might be the tonka? Have you tried it? How would you describe Nouveau Genre by Yves Rocher?

A Whiff of Waffle Cone by Imaginary Authors

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

I instantaneously get a sweetness that characterises the house of Imaginary Authors. Oh how I've missed exploring a fragrance like this!

I must say that I was expecting something sickenly sweet considering the notes of syrup, ice cream, heavy cream, vanilla and salted caramel. A Whiff of Waffle Cone is sweet, there's no doubt about that, but it is surprisingly wearable. The fragrance isn't even juvenile or childish, which to me is complete magic in itself. Though I've had some rough experiences with fragrances from Imaginary Authors lately (ie. The Cobra & The Canary and Whispered Myths) I am back to what drew me to this absolutely amazing house!

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One thing about A Whiff of Waffle Cone that I didn't expect from Imaginary Authors, is how fleeting it is. I gave it a good go with a couple of sprays on my wrist, but half an hour in and it's just a lingering scent. I have been wondering for some time whether it's my skin pH and chemistry, because longevity or more precisely the lack thereof of fragrances is something I experience a lot. However, Memoirs of A Trespasser is an absolute beast on me. The same goes for Unknown Pleasures, Davana & Vanille and many other fragrances in my collection. 

Mentioning Memoirs of A Trespasser, I have say that A Whiff of Waffle Cone reminds me of it a lot. It is just without the scent of smoke and depth, but rather that of slightly burned caramel. I would almost say that it's a spring edition of the wintery Memoirs of A Trespasser!

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Back to the review, A Whiff of Waffle Cone has a fresh opening with a delicate syrup sweetness. Only after some minutes does the aroma of vanilla change the character of the sweetness and a very mild note of caramel, slightly burned, appears.

On paper, A Whiff of Waffle Cone has a citrus opening, which is quite surprising. It has the same balance of citrus and sweet as Davana & Vanille Bourbon that doesn't oxidise away, but stays as the core body of the fragrance. Dare I say that it is absolutely scrumptious! 

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Unfortunately this fragrance is limited to Salt & Straw and I won't be paying the taxes and fees that come along with a overseas purchases. This fragrance will be missed, but I'll have Memoirs of A Trespasser in the winter and Davana & Vanille Bourbon in the summer to keep me company,

Musc Ravageur by Frederic Malle

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

Lately, I have been quite stressed about getting through my winter sample fragrances in time. Spring is just around the corner and I have been looking forward to wearing my spring go-tos and trying out my spring appropriate samples. 

I am afraid that I won't get through in time, because the list is long, all I can do is just start from the beginning.

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Musc Ravageur by Frederic Malle is absolutely delicious. Straight from the opening notes, it is a deep, sensual, spicy fragrance. From afar, my nose catches a mouthwatering gourmand vanilla, but up close the notes of cloves and cinnamon dominate for a long while.

After my mediocre voyage through Matiere Premiere fragrances and then terrible bumps through the two Si Passione fragrances by Giorgio Armani, Musc Ravageur feels like a saviour!

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After dry down, Musc Ravageur reveals the top notes after the exposé of the middle notes, which is quite peculiar. I get hints of citrus, but not as fresh and sour as it sounds, and also lavender, but just a hint. Musk and tonka overpower the vanilla, which now is slightly more in the background. I must say, that I do prefer the scent profile in the first couple of minutes.

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An hour or so in, all the prominent spices are gone, vanilla too, but Musc Ravageur remains sweet, deep and slightly spicy. 

Later in the day, the fragrance is a close-to-skin elegantly sweet scent.

I am so happy that I own a small flacon of this fragrance rather than a tiny sample. The scent profile of this fragrance is right up my alley, but I have so many in that category that it isn't quite purchase-worthy for me, but I am looking forward to wearing it when the weather starts getting colder again.

Si Passione Éclat by Giorgio Armani

 

Photosource: Nice Hair

A lovely fresh and luxurious laundry detergent. Though Si Passione Éclat reminds me of Si Passione, Éclat does not have a cheap soapy quality about it, just a slight detergent vibe. I have noticed that I always describe floral fragrances as soapy or as a cleaning detergent, maybe it's because most of the soaps in my childhood were florals. Have we finally found the reason for my floral hatred?

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After dry down, musk is far more prevalent and Éclat gains a more sophisticated profile than Si Passione. It is, however, still a floral, which is composed in such a way that I don't like it or rather wouldn't like to wear it. I see myself liking this on other people, though. There's a slight woodiness and powderiness that I would have loved more of and if citrus was more in the forefront, this might even have been a fragrance I would have added to my collection.

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Éclat doesn't have a strong lasting power on me and after an hour or so, I have to sniff my wrist quite closely to add thoughts to my review.

I reapplied the fragrance a couple of times, and I have to say that the opening notes are mesmerising. A definite note of rose that isn't too overpowering, but also a fresh juicy citrus, something fresh, almost aldehydic that soon disappears and I am left, yet again, with a generic fragrance.

What a shame. 

Si Passione Éclat is more than just Si Passione rebooted, but the fragrance has much to be desired for it to be memorable and after this review, Si Passione Éclat will be forgotten like many of the other famous fragrances I have reviewed.

Si Passione by Giorgio Armani

Photosource: LiliaVas on Fragrantica

Fresh and fruity opening.

Like most fashion house perfumes, Si Passione is blended beyond belief and the individual notes are impossible to determine.

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I am in a lucky, but difficult situation. I have access to all the popular fragrances from brands like Chanel, Giorgio Armani, Chloé, Marc Jacobs and so on and so forth.

I have been sniffing around trying to find their appeal, but there is none. Not for me at least.

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Si Passione Éclat was launched this year, and I felt like it would be a nice combination to try Si Passione first and then review Éclat, but alas, mainstream fragrances are just not for me.

How many times do I have to say this? I don't know, I guess I am searching for that one mass pleasing fragrance that will prove me wrong.

And believe me, I even stuck my nose down Chanel Coco Noir many a time and nothing!

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Back to reviewing Si Passione, I cannot describe the fragrance to you in notes. I am best at describing fragrances through notes and visions that they give me, but fashion house fragrances, to me, are just a mix of sweet, fruity, woody or aromatic compounds.

My take on Si Passione is a sweet, lightly fruity, juvenile and probably easy to like fragrance. However, I usually like sweet and fruity, so what about Si Passione is so off? I honestly don't know, because the fragrance has been blended with a Nutribullet and no notes stand out.

I sprayed myself with Si Passione for a date with my boyfriend on his birthday, but the scent was not what I was looking for and washed it off before leaving and wore my trusty Coffee Break by Maison Margiela instead.

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Needless to say, I revisited Si Passione for a proper review and take on it, but it is a no for me. Let's see if Éclat stands a chance.

She Shihan by Piotr Czarnecki

Photosource: GourmandyAndy

The other day I wore the last drop I had left of Venom of Angel by Piotr Czarnecki. It reminded me that I had yet to review She Shihan, which is a very interesting fragrance to say the least!

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She Shihan is a bursting floral that quickly gains a soap quality on my skin, just after a minute or two. Though the fragrance is an Amber Vanilla fragrance, the rose is very prominent. Just like Venom of Angel, She Shihan is a complete enigma of a scent! The notes are so well blended, but they each peek through now and again, confusing my nose throughout the whole oxidation time. I smell something chocolaty, then a slight bitter coffee bean, definitely something floral, but also a vanilla sweet and fruity note.

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On paper, She Shihan is far more fruity and light. Plum is definitely in the forefront, lead by ever so slight notes of tobacco leaves, myrrh, labdanum and whiskey. 

I found an old review I made back in June 2021 where I did not get any of the notes stated above, which shows me how much I have learned just after one year in the fragrance community!

I quote: "Strong feminine opening, too generic for my liking. Rose, heavy musk and myrrh. A slight pepper undertone. I don't smell plum, whiskey or coffee, which is a shame, I would have loved that. This fragrance has a lot more character on paper, I prefer it with it's fresher profile and more airy notes."

With the last part, I agree.

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After dry down, Shi Shihan is a delicate sweet floral fragrance. It is very pleasant and the type of floral I see myself wearing. After reapplying, much later during the day, the fragrance leaves a very special sweet, spicy, plastic-like scent in the room. 

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My closing thought is that She Shihan is a very balanced fragrance. Sweet, slightly floral, slightly spicy and rich, but not too cloying. It might be a fragrance that I have to revisit, but for now I am good without.

Neroli Oranger by Matiere Premiere

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

So, we've finally arrived at the finale. 

Neroli Oranger is the last fragrance in the Matiere Premiere discovery set and it is nothing mystical to discover, but a fragrance of "you get what you see" quality". A quality, I will always consider a staple part of the house of Matiere Premiere.

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Neroli Oranger opens with a burst of orange blossom, the scent is both sweet and fresh. Developing on the skin, the fragrance lives up to its name, which is a very realistic neroli scent with orange blossom. The ylang-ylang sweetens this floral fragrance and makes it perfect for the upcoming Springtime.

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Just as almost any Matiere Premiere perfume, Neroli Oranger is very linear and doesn't reveal any secrets or surprises after oxidation. Though I do not like florals, unless they are woven into a gourmand or woody fragrance, I can appreciate the quality of the floral notes. They smell clean, real and fresh, as if walking down a neroli and orange blossom orchard. 

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Neroli Oranger leaves me at a loss for words as did all the other linear Matiere Premiere fragrances. The simplicity of the fragrances can be put into a few sentences without leaving anything out. You truly get what you see, which I really appreciate in fragrances, but if I have to be completely honest, I need that niche kick. An element that knocks the fragrance off its balance. Gives it an edge. A spice. A feeling of mystery.

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Neroli Oranger rounds off my experience with the house of Matiere Premiere nicely. A pleasant venture through different olfactory families, few surprises along the way, but all in all at a steady pace.

Bois d'Ébéne by Matiere Premiere

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

After my surprising experience with Radical Rose, I was ready to get back to normal when trying Bois d'Èbéne. Expecting a woody green fragrance, I was twice in a row surprised by the house of Matiere Premiere.

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Bois d'Èbéne has a sweet, pleasant, woody and unisex opening. A note of smoke slowly creeps to the surface turning the scent to a more masculine fragrance, but it is still very wearable and elegant.

With Bois d'Èbéne we are, however, back to the profile of Matiere Premiere; easy, likable fragrances. Something about it, once again, reminds me of another fragrance, but I cannot remember which. It must be the patchouli, which I finally have learned to identify.

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I loved Radical Rose for the surprise that it gave me, but Bois d'Èbéne is far more my style and the composition I usually lean towards. Deep, mysterious, sexy.

On paper, the fragrance is aromatic with a clear note of juniper that did not appear on my skin at all. This profile turns the fragrance completely masculine to me smelling like a fresh cologne.

Another characteristic I've notice about Matiere Premiere, is that the fragrances are very faint. Maybe my nose gets used to them very quickly, but I am lacking the sillage. I feel like I would have liked them more if I could actually smell them on me, but they remain an ambiance in the background during the day.

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A little anecdote I would like to add is that I visited my parents and my mom immediately complimented my fragrance and exclaimed "what are you wearing!?". Upon second thought, Bois d'Èbéne is actually a fragrance I would consider adding to my collection. I have a few fragrances with the same scent profile, but this fragrance is absolutely lovely and compliments are always welcome!

Because I own some fragrances that I absolutely adore, but they do not get the same reaction from my dearest.

Radical Rose by Matiere Premiere

Photosource: Scent Studio (own copyright)

The thing with rose fragrances... I have been putting off trying the rose edition of the Matiere Premiere perfume, because I thought I would dislike it as I do any rose fragrance. I even contemplated trying it first, just to 'get it out the way', but

I didn't. However, because my experience with Matiere Premiere so far has been lukewarm, I needed something radical, something that would spark a bigger emotion than just nodding my head and thinking "it's good", even if that emotion was a bad one.

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Radical Rose has a sour opening, like a natural rosewater face mist, but the fragrance surprisingly changes and blossoms on my skin revealing an unmistakable note of sweet cherry, which resembles that of Tom Ford's Lost Cherry.

A lingering note of something smokey, something powdery, pleasantly leads the fragrance making it nothing like a classic floral rose, along with the sweet cherry undertone, the fragrance seems more gourmand.

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Radical Rose is such a surprise to me!

Even though I will still dislike rose fragrances, I have to say that this fragrance is my favourite from all of Matiere Premiere. It is unique, it develops on the skin and isn't as linear as all the other ones.

The opening sour note is absolutely terrible and the first time I tried this fragrance I thought I fell into rose hell. But that feeling was short lived, because what soon after was unveiled, was magic.

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Close to the skin, Radical Rose has a leathery, labdanum or even sandalwood note. On paper, however, I would have avoided this fragrance at all costs. It is a pungent, classic rose, like that of cosmetics aimed towards mature skin. And the fragrance remains pungent for over an hour, only then does it reveal a sweeter, less harsh, note.

Though I would never add a rose to my collection, I have to say, that Radical Rose is the most memorable and likable fragrance from Matiere Premiere. With only two fragrances left to try, I think it will be difficult to top this out of the ordinary experience.