Sueded Oud by Clean Reserve Fragrances

I have owned Sueded Oud for a while now (since last summer). It was a blind buy made solely by the raving reviews from Anne Lauren (yes, once again she's managed to do so!).

I don't know why and I don't know how, but I managed to forget to write a review and even worse, add the fragrance to my Parfumo shelf.

I have made mistakes blind buying a fragrance before, so I didn't dare to get the full bottle, but I managed to find a 10 ml bottle perfect for an introduction. Which is also why I'll spare you my own photography - the 10ml atomizer isn't very photogenic.

Luckily, Sueded Oud, wasn't a mistake.

The name Sueded Oud alludes to a dominating and strong fragrance, but the key wording here is 'sueded'. This fragrance is smooth and delicate, just like I imagine the word sueded to be - making something softer like the feeling of soft suede. 

I don't know how Clean did it, but this fragrance has so many notes whereas the scent itself is very simple.

Pimento, cactus, praline, incense, patchouli, birch, cypress... This should knock you out like the first spray of Oud for Greatness, but instead, Sueded Oud comforts you, snuggles you in and feels like a freshly washed warm and cozy blanket. 

It has a wonderful projection and I feel confident wearing it, it is perfect for an office job, a meeting or if you want to emanate maturity and confidence.

Though not like that of praline, which I find sticky sweet, Sueded Oud has a perfectly sweetened balance that is delicate and feminine. It isn't just a cashmere soft scent. Very close to skin, I even find it powdery, but in a very endearing way.

I am very pleased with my blind buy venture, thank you Anne!

The Scent for Her by Hugo Boss

I cannot believe that I haven't posted this review yet! What had held me back? I can only imagine that I got a new set of samples much more interesting than this. However, I am just going to embarrass myself and admit that I wrote it back in June 2022... 

[Review]

A juicy, ripe peach clouds over the entire room. The Scent for Her by Hugo Boss is a realistic fruity fragrance like I have never expected from a designer fragrance. Usually, fragrances like this are not just a fruit, they are a whole basket! Peaches, pears, currant, apple and all.

After a short while, the peach is less prominent and the fragrance becomes more soapy losing its magic. I do have to say that it's a lovely spring fragrance, but the cheap quality that it gets from losing its initial juicy peach, changes my whole perspective of it.

There's a white floral, freesia, that in combination with the peach makes this scent very bar-of-soap like. It's really a shame, I was just hoping I could find an alternative to Bitter Peach by Tom Ford, which of course has a poor longevity on me. Unfortunately, The Scent is not it.

I hate being so negative about designer fragrances, so I'll just cut this review short and end it with that the fragrance is not for me.

Absolute Aphrodisiac by Initio

Oh, I see what you all mean... Absolute Aphrodisiac came on my radar when I saw Anne Lauren's date night fragrance video. Once again, this girl made me want to blind buy a fragrance, but I restrained myself and waited for the opportunity to get a sample first. It was as if Absolute Aphrodisiac haunted me, because I saw it everywhere and you guys raved about it calling it sex in a perfume. I am not disappointed, but I'm also happy that I didn't buy a full bottle.

Absolute Aphrodisiac is creamy, thick and delicious. It is a cousin to the smoothness of Milk and Gold by Commodity, but without the Commodity plastic-DNA that I experience. On top, the creaminess is made rough and sexual with notes of leather and castoreum. The castoreum isn't repulsively animalic, but it is at just the right amount to make the fragrance sensual. This is a skin scent done right, but it is a true skin scent. After dry down, Absolute Aphrodisiac mostly disappears. It is a lingering scent of amber creaminess and just a tad amount of leather that is slightly peppery, however, if you expected to project a gorgeous vanilla, sweet and musky scent, Absolute Aphrodisiac isn't for you. This is a scent you wear for yourself or for those you invite to be close to you.

I must say that Absolute Aphrodisiac isn't groundbreaking. Besides the two Commodity scents, it reminds me of something else, but I cannot remember which fragrance. I hoped to be in love, but Absolute Aphrodisiac isn't for me, it is too discreet, whereas I like to smell my fragrances and like when they have a prominent note that defines it. 

Something about fragrances like Absolute Aphrodisiac gives me a headache and makes me nauseous. An hour in, and I have had too much. A throbbing headache, yet a relief that I didn't blind buy it too...

Paradoxe by Prada

Hi, hello, yes, I'm late to Paradoxe... I was at the release party when it came out on the market, but had I formed an opinion and written something down? No of course not... 

I remember that I reeeeally disliked it. A sweet, obnoxious mess. So, she's gone, I don't have her anymore and all I have to offer is this photo. I think it's the first time I'm just posting a photo without a review. And I don't like it.

I only remember that I laughed out loudly when I smelled it the first time, because of the backstory of the name, Paradoxe, whereas the fragrance has nothing to do with opposites at all. No duality, nothing contrasting, nothing special. It was so sweet and monotonous I washed it off after a couple of hours, because it was so bad. I honestly remember the jokes I was cracking about it better than I remember how it smelled, because it's so unmemorable.

God of Fire by Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777

This fragrance has been the talk of the town for a long while. The mango note had me very curious as I'm in a phase of loving sweet tropical notes in perfumes. Also, I finally got my hands on Lamar, another fruity tropical scent, and I feel very satiated by having it, but when the opportunity came, I just couldn't miss it, because a mango fragrance is very appealing to me.

God of Fire opens with a note of unripe mango. It is tart, fresh, not too sweet and it is quite green. Soon after, a light, shy sweetness appears and the fragrance is very appealing, especially with the sunshine outside. I cannot help but compare it to Lamar and the two are very different, in such a way that Lamar is sweet, sensual and mouthwatering. God of Fire, however, is a fresh and uplifting scent. The mango is still quite tart, the lemon uplifts the fragrance even more and the sweet, grounding notes haven't made their entrance yet.

After dry down, I find the mango note quite elusive and I'm unsure whether it's still there or if it's just a memory... Mango Skin from Vilhelm Parfumerie is still fresh in my mind, I have to say that I prefer MS. God of Fire is nice, don't get me wrong, but it is just that, not much else. I find myself completely satiated by Lamar at the moment and God knows I have enough fresh citrus scents in my collection! God of Fire falls short of what I expected. Reviews made me believe it would be the most mouthwatering mango, dripping with juice from the ripe fruit. I was lead to believe that the scent would be absolutely addicting, but I am left feeling underwhelmed. After just an hour, I have trouble detecting the scent, let alone the mango note. I reapplied liberally and find myself comparing God of Fire to scents from The Body Shop or Yves Rocher, both being simple and likeable in their own way, but not mind-blowing or mesmerising.

Luckily, or maybe not, time will tell, I bought two samples of God of Fire, because I was sure it would be amazing. Maybe this is a scent I have to wear a couple of times before I start loving it (like Hibiscus Mahajád), but I am quite sure that the scent has just been overhyped and now suffers the consequences. 

Aoud Lemon Mint by Mancera

Mancera is a fragrance house I have seen all over my feed, but I had never encountered them to smell any of their fragrances. I was just reading your reviews and wondering from the sidelines. I saw that Notino sells Mancera in Denmark, but my bad streak of unsuccessful blind buys had me waiting and wondering.

I was just browsing, when I saw Aoud Lemon Mint at a very low price. At first glance, I didn't think much of it, because the thought of mint didn't appeal to me, but I love oud and I love lemon. The almond, vanilla and nutty accords had me change my mind. And I did it, I blind bought the fragrance and could only hope for the best...
So how did it go?

Aoud Lemon Mint, straight from the bottle, is surprisingly warm and creamy. There's a hint of citrus freshening it up, but on first impression I am sensing a delicious, honestly deep, fragrance. However, the first sprays are very citrus dominant, but something sweet and creamy is tagging along very promptly. After the initial dry down, the scent is balanced between citrus and almond equally. Luckily, I don't get any mint, which isn't stated on Fragrantica and if I recall correctly, The Perfume Guy mentioned that it was a clever play of words being that patchouli is in the mint plant family (patchouli is mentioned in the notes).

Besides what I've mentioned, I am actually finding it difficult to describe. Aoud Lemon Mint is lemony, it is warm and sweet, a little powdery, I get the tiniest hint of vetiver, but the scent remains unisex.

I added more sprays and the citruses came to play once again.

Hours later, Aoud Lemon Mint has remained a lovely citrus with creamy sweetness from almonds. Something sharp, slightly sour, is detectable close to skin, but I'm not sure whether it is the oud or the quality if the lemon though it smell fine from afar.

Theoretically, Aoud Lemon Mint should be just as loved by me as Davana & Vanille Bourbon, both being sweet citruses with the warmth of vanilla/almonds, but I can already tell that Davana & Vanille still has my heart. The vetiver in Aoud Lemon Mint makes it more aromatic than I prefer, whereas the feminine elegance of Davana & Vanille mesmerises me every time.

Though not a complete mistake, Aoud Lemon Mint will find its place on my boyfriend's shelf instead of mine.

PS: would you believe that the flare isn't added? I got the photo just right and caught the sun!

Bloom Nettare di Fiori by Gucci

Listen... I... I'm honestly finding reviews that are over one and a half year old!
I've been buying new samples, doing collections, trying to create a harmonious feed and some fragrances are left behind. Left in the dust!

Bloom Nettare di Fiori has long been sold, I don't have it anymore, so bear that in mind reading the review.

To my surprise, I was yet again lucky and was #gifted two new fragrances. I was allowed to choose freely and even though I should be grateful, I found myself in a difficult situation. The scents I could choose from were almost all florals. You know how I feel about those. I sniffed and sniffed until I got a piercing headache, but ended up choosing Sí eau de parfume and Nettare di Fiori.

Nettare di Fiori is a pure floral fragrance, so you might wonder how I ended up choosing it, but my explanation is quite simple. Nettare di Fiori didn't have any notes that bothered me. It is a lighthearted floral fragrance of white florals, a delicate sweetness and a unassuming elegance. I cannot imagine anyone disliking it with a passion. After dry down on paper, the florals become more nuanced.

On skin, the fragrance is quite nice, not my usual type, but it isn't as bad as I have found designer fragrances to be. Floral, a little nauseating, not too sweet though. After dry down, the scent becomes musky and a little deeper. Powdery from the osmanthus and a little dirty from the patchouli. It has a funny balance of being elegantly mature, but at the same time sweetly juvenile.

I was hopeful, but true to my taste and nature, this floral isn't for me either.

Infusion d'Iris by Prada

Lately, I've been acquiring fragrances that I wouldn't necessarily purchase myself, if at all. I have been blessed to be #gifted so many that I am grossly behind on reviewing them and taking photos, but one that really stood out was Infusion d'Iris. Besides the beautiful bottle, many of you have recommended it to me as well. Infusion d'Iris is a powdery fragrance, so I had my doubts, but this is how it went...

On paper, the scent is very mature from the get go. It does have a slight mandarine top note, but the thickness and powderiness of the fragrance makes it far from fresh, but elegant and, how I only can describe it, mature. After dry down, the scent is less thick than it was in the beginning. What is revealed is an elegant, smooth and sophisticated fragrance. It has a slight peppery undertone, but very faint. Perhaps from the benzoin.

On skin, Infusion d'Iris is even more rich in mandarin, which I really like. It gives it a light hearted freshness. After dry down, the mandarin fizzles away, but the scent isn't as powdery and thick as it was on paper. I find it quite difficult to describe. It is powdery, but also so many other things. I would give it a "freshly washed linen" quality, but not as realistic and simple as in Clean fragrances. 

Months later, I am revisiting the fragrance, because I haven't finished my review and... I actually haven't worn it either. Infusion d'Iris is just not me and I have learned to let go. Gone are the days where the collection has to be as big as possible. I really only want to own fragrances that I love.

Goodbye Infusion d'Iris.

Vanilla Woods by The 7 Virtues

Let's finish how we started, with a vanilla. My hopes aren't high, though. The 7 Virtues discovery set has, unfortunately, made me disinterested in the house. I might jump hoops to try Cherry Ambitions, because I am in search of a good cherry fragrance, but I have gotten a feel of the DNA of the house and it is not for me. At all.

Vanilla Woods, alas, is not for me either. A zero percent success rate with The 7 Virtues discovery set! The fragrance opens very sweet, from the pear, and has a Royale Sugared Patchouli (one of the Kayali fragrance) vibe. During the dry down, Vanilla Woods changes a lot. The sweetness isn't as pungent and a cigarette bud note appears. I think it's here to stay. I don't get any rose or caramel, just a sweet vanilla flavored cigarette bud. Not smokey, no burning note either. But the scent of a bud laying on the pavement, fire out, a little diluted by yesterday's rain.

Lowd! I am NOT looking forward to trying it on myself.. And you know what?

I won't.

Coconut Sun by The 7 Virtues

We are nearing the end and if I had to say upfront how my experience with The 7 Virtues has been, it has definitely been a disappointment. None of the fragrances have made an impression on me, in all honesty, I think quite badly of The 7 Virtues now. Synthetic, cloying, flat... Something just isn't right. You might as well get nicer scents from the Yves Rocher body mists or The Body Shop.

I am, however, oh so hopeful that Coconut Sun and Vanilla Woods will redeem the house of The 7 Virtues.

Coconut Sun promises something milky, creamy and tropically yellow floral. I was imagining Ylang in Gold Nectare or Eau de Soleil Blanc. What I got was a soap bar version of those scents. Coconut Sun has a soapy, fresh note. Not particularly from the citrus note though. Coconut-wise, I do get coconut water instead of coconut milk. The scent is therefore not thick and milky, but light, somewhat fresh, but made tropical and summery by the frangipani and barely there sea salt. This gives me luxurious air-refreshener vibes. Luxurious, because the scent isn't cheap or synthetic enough to be a "Tropical Beach Getaway" candle slash air-refreshener.

In all fairness, Coconut Sun isn't that bad. I just think I have gotten bitter by the disappointing scents I have tried thus far and because Coconut Sun isn't blowing me away. I am giving it a hard time.

I left Coconut Sun last night not wanting to try it on myself. This morning, I am completely surprised how much this scent reminds me of a friend. I had to contact her and ask, if she has this perfume, because the scent is uncanny!

I'm putting off trying it on myself, why? Because I'm tired of smelling badly since testing the scents of The 7 Virtues... 

Blackberry Lily by The 7 Virtues

Blackberry Lily might be the most difficult for me in the set. It has blackberry, yum, but also potentially artificially fruity. And it has lily in it, white floral. I don't think I need to say more to those who read my reviews regularly.

In short, I am hoping for the caramel, amber and vetiver, but I might get the lily, rose, magnolia and lily of the valley.

So how does Blackberry Lily smell like? Well, on paper I get a jammy, sweet note of blackberry and blackcurrant. It is quite juvenile. Think The Body Shop or Victoria's Secret body mist. To my surprise, I don't find the fragrance particularly floral. It is, however, bad. Really not my cup of tea. I read a review that said that the fragrance gets better when you let it marinate. I bought my discovery set second hand, so it should be at its "final stage". 

I'm not too keen on trying it on myself, but let's see how it goes.

Still sweet, but definitely more mature on skin. Note-wise, they are much more difficult to distinguish. Hmm, the scent is more sharp. More alcoholic. It is deeper, more green, but do not misunderstand, it is by no means a green, aromatic or otherwise green-leaning fragrance. Blackberry Lily is still a cloyingly sweet fruity fragrance. On skin, however, something more mature appears.

Honestly, Blackberry Lily is very difficult to describe from its scent on skin. We have moved from the The Body Shop-esque realm to that of Rituals. A more sophisticated, mature and deep take on the fragrance. I like that it has taken that turn, but it is still not a fragrance for me.

Right now, The 7 Virtues seem to be a fragrance house that isn't to my liking.

Lotus Pear by The 7 Virtues

I must admit that nothing about "Lotus Pear" is appealing to me. Lotus evokes something floral and light, whereas pear is a fruity note I'm not necessarily keen on.

Geranium, gardenia and lotus promise a floral fragrance, but I am hopeful that the orange, peach and vanilla power through! So, Lotus Pear, let's get you out of the way!

Lotus Pear is giving me Gucci Flora vibes from the get go! Think Gucci Flora Gorgeous Gardenia. It is sweet, lightly floral and fruity. After dry down, it becomes creamy and I have to say that I'm pleasantly surprised. It is, however, on the verge of being headache inducing with its designer-esque sweetness.

Lotus Pear is a very feminine fragrance, just about verging on being juvenile. I have to say that a few minutes in, I have had enough. It is just too sweet.

I am dreading trying it on skin, but let's see, something magical might happen.

On skin, Lotus Pear is a mix of Gucci Flora Gorgeous Gardenia and Hugo Boss the Scent for Her - the peach is definitely there. However, something about Lotus Pears doesn't sit right with me. I think it will appeal to designer fragrance lovers, but it is far too sweet for me.

Lotus Pear might have potential in the spring and summer, so I might revisit it, but right now I cannot wait to get to the woodier fragrances in the set.

We just need to try Blackberry Lily first.

Santal Vanille by The 7 Virtues

I know about The 7 Virtues thanks to Anne Lauren. In fact, she might be the most @'ed person on my blog. However, the way she has been raving about Santal Vanille makes me think - how could I not try it? An avid vanilla lover, I am so glad the day has finally come. I got my hands on a small 7 Virtues discovery set. It contains Vanilla Woods, Coconut Sun, Blackberry Lily, Santal Vanille and Lotus Pear. Naturally, I will be starting off with Santal Vanille, but I am very curious about Vanilla Woods and Coconut Sun too.

So, now in my hands, how good is Santal Vanille? Both the name and the notes allude to something warm and smooth. I am imagining something sweet and creamy from the coconut milk, something warm and spicy from the cardamom, hoping for something rich and elegant from the cashmere, sandalwood, cocoa, vanilla and frankincense. Santal Vanille is, on paper, ambiguously just that, but at the same time, not at all. It is fresher than I expected. The coconut milk isn't thick and creamy, it smells like the taste of fresh coconut meat. Santal Vanille remains the same after dry down. There's a hint of vanilla and cashmere, but I do not get the spiciness from cardamom, the depth form myrrh or the thickness of sandalwood. 

I was honestly scared that Santal Vanille would be too close to my two other favourite vanillas, namely By the Fireplace and Memoirs of a Trespasser. However, it is a fresh and lighthearted take on vanilla. It might even be mostly appropriate for summer.

On skin, Santal Vanille opens more cedarwood-forward. The fresh coconutty note I got on paper isn't as prominent and the fragrance is less endearing. In all honesty, it is quite fleeting on skin. It might be, because I've tired my nose too much (I must admit that as soon as I received this discovery set, I powered through the set of Penhaligon).

Something about it is very The Body Shop-esque. I am getting some synthetic vibes, but that seems unlikely considering that The 7 Virtues are made from natural sources and essential oils.

I keep smelling my wrists to see if I like it or not and I don't know. I don't know. You know?

When it's not a loud yes, I guess it's a no. Don't get me wrong, it is a beautifully smooth vanilla fragrance, but I am not over the moon.

Days later, I have smelled the paper strip many times and unfortunately, I dislike it.

The Inimitable William Penhaligon by Penhaligon's

Carrying the name of the house, William Penhaligon has something to prove. I hope that we'll finish off with a bang!

Vetiver and warm, earthy notes. Oh I do hope William is nice. He promises a fresh opening with bergamot, potentially from cedarwood too, but the frankincense, vetiver and sandalwood invite something creamy and divine.

On paper, William Penhaligon is just that. Wow. I'm at a loss for words. He is elegantly creamy. An ever so slight note of fresh bergamot at top, but so faint. Just like Mr Sam, I cannot stop smelling it. They are very different. Mr Sam was spicy and warm, whereas William Penhaligon is smooth and creamy. I am honestly wanting them both in my collection!

What a wonderful way to finish off the portraits set.

The Blazing Mr Sam by Penhaligon's

First of, I have learned not to be too excited about the notes in Penhaligon's before trying them (*cough* Changing Constance), however, Mr Sam is promising something very nice! Hot and cold spices, patchouli and creamy cedar... I might even hope that I can try it on skin, but alas, we've been here before...

Just seeing the notes of cardamom, cinnamon, saffron and vanilla makes my mouth water.

So, Mr Sam, on paper... Yes, yes, absolutely yes! Warm and sweet. Masculine, but not far from unisex. After dry down Mr Sam... Dries down! The fragrance is less sweet and more of a spicy, dry perfume. Still very warm and ambery - I absolutely adore it!

Honestly, I cannot stop smelling it. I've been through a couple Penhaligon's fragrances now that I really dislike and my nose finally feels at ease! It is perfect for this season, the spicy cardamom and cinnamon allude to walking down cobblestone streets during Christmas. It is cold, the air is crisp and the small booths filled with Christmas delights like roasted almond fill the air with wonderful spices.

Terrible Teddy by Penhaligon's

Notes of leather and incense promise something wonderful, but I am side-eyeing the ambroxan. I have a tendency to become anosmic to it, so I hope this won't be the case.

Definitely leathery - Terrible Teddy is spicy at the opening, but I've just sampled Mr Sam and the two have a completely different note of spicy. Mr Sam is a classic, warm, spicy fragrance of cardamom and cinnamon, wheres as Terrible Teddy is a leather fragrance with the sour and spicy (also almost peppery) note of leather. I am not getting the incense to the degree that I'd like. It only smooths the leather a bit.

Have I made a mistake looking up other reviews? Maybe, because I agree with them that Terrible Teddy suddenly became a woody fir fragrance. I now find it woodsy. I wish it had more charm. It is wonderfully made, but I am not blown away. 

Much Ado About The Duke by Penhaligon's

Oh well, another rose and pepper fragrance... Let's get this over with. 

The pepper is there, but much lighter than expected. Not my cup of tea, but I thought it would be worse! However, as the fragrance dries down, I find myself exhaling stronger and stronger to get the scent out of my nose. The pepper is definitely the main accord in The Duke. Much to my dismay.

At the moment I don't get much rose, but bare in mind, I won't be testing this on skin (explained in my Changing Constance review).

I had a small break between reviewing and had to respray.

If you like pepper, The Duke is a wonderful fragrance, but as told in a prior review, I ate too much pepper as a child and now I hate it. The scent of it is just as unappealing, so unfortunately, The Duke is lost on me.

The Tragedy of Lord George by Penhaligon's

Depending on how unisex I find them, I will only be trying "the boys" from the Portrait Set on paper. Being completely run down by all the florals and finishing off with a doozy, Changing Constance, I am ready to be done with this set.

Lord George is promising something divine. Woodsy notes, brandy, tonka and amber? Sign me up! 

However, on paper, Lord George opens with a much drier and less sweet accord than I initially thought it would be. It is instead spicy, dry and woody. Quite masculine and fairly enough so that I don't feel like wearing it on skin. I will however look forward to spraying this on my partner!

It is an elegant fragrance. Even after dry down, there is a sharp alcoholic note. There's also a distinct soapy note. Imagine someone having freshly showered and who walks into a library full of old books, a leather couch in the middle of the room, and pours himself a glass of rum. All these notes amplified and liquified and put into a fragrance bottle. 

Beautiful.

Changing Constance by Penhaligon's

I am in dire need of a pick me up! We started off so well with the Portraits Set, but I had to go through three florals to get here, to a beloved Amber Vanilla!

Caramel, warm spicy, vanilla, tobacco, salty... What's not to like!

On paper, Changing Constance is giving me Lush fragrance vibes. Simple, not the best quality (sorry, that's the experience I had) and quite frankly, cheap. Constance, why are you doing this to me! We were supposed to finish off big! 

Well, there's nothing else to do than try it on skin. 

From the whole set, I was looking forward to Changing Constance the most, but I am still reminiscing about Yasmine, which was a far more elegant take on cardamom. Constance is weirdly composed, monotonous, linear, boring. Just a sweet blob on the skin. I am so confused and struggling to describe it.

Where's the caramel? The saltiness? The warm spicy notes? To me, this is as monotone as was Grand Soir, Absolute Aphrodisiac and Angel's Share (if I remember correctly on the latter). 

And I stand by my Lush remark. 

I'll give it a minute and reapply.

Nothing's changed. What a snooze.

This could be a great layering fragrance though - it is warm and sweet, perfect base for other fragrances that need some depth or sweetness, but alone? It just doesn't do it for me. I need more nuance in a fragrance, especially the ambery and gourmand kind.

Oh well! The boys are up for testing now, which one should I start with? 

Heartless Helen by Penhaligon's

Second to last of all the more feminine scents in the set. I know Constance is going to be more up my alley, so I have a "let's get Helen out of the way" approach.

Helen is a white floral and tuberose scent, so my hopes aren't high. 

Oh yeah, this is not me at all... I am dreading trying this on my skin! Peppery tuberose, two of my usual dislikes. The more it dries down on paper, the worse it gets - it is creeping close to smelling like sticking your nose into a pepper grinder with freshly ground pepper. Fun fact, I loved pepper as a kid and put it on everything (almost put it on my marmalade), but one day I've had enough and I have hated pepper in food ever since. This is absolutely repulsive to me.

I am honestly dreading putting this on skin, and you what? Life's too short. I'm not gonna do it.

The Coveted Duchess Rose by Penhaligon's

Y'all know how I feel about rose scents... Alas, it is in the set and I will give it a fair chance.

From the first spray, this is giving me Chloé vibes - pure and clean florals, however, a little more mature and a little soapy. Yet again, this is more of a spring scent than for autumn. Though I dislike florals, I have to say Duchess Rose is more inviting to try on my skin than Lady Blanche was.

On skin, Duchess Rose has the same Chloé-esque quality to its florals. Somewhat soapy too. It is quite light and airy for a rose scent. It is in fact a fine fragrance, light, feminine and soft. 

Duchess Rose is so light that I reapplied generously just after it dried down. Even though I was generous to begin with!

In all honesty, the fragrance is barely there. Very personal and only those passing you by or standing next to you, would be able to smell it.

I usually wear a fragrance for some hours and write my final take then, but I completely forgot. Why? Because Duchess Rose is so faint and lasts only a few hours.

I can only smell her close to skin.

What I do smell is a pleasant, light take on a classic rose.

The Revenge of Lady Blanche by Penhaligon's

Oh how I love that I finally have the energy to try and to review new fragrances. I am, however, selective in which order I am discovering the set of Portraits from Penhaligon's - I need easily likeable fragrances to get into the swing of things.

Lady Blanche sounds just as amazing as Yasmine - a spicy, floral and woody scent. Perfect in Autumn!

But oh how different the two are! Lady Blanche is a powdery and light fragrance, whereas Yasmine was spicy, deep and smokey.

I'm sorry Penhaligon's, but in what world is Lady Blanche a spicy fragrance? This reminds me so much of Infusion d'Iris by Prada. Both are elegant, powdery, feminine and floral. Lady Blanche has in comparison to Infusion d'Iris a notable note of hyacinth.

The one who wrote the pamphlet in the set needs to revise it 👀

Lady Blanche is definitely for spring and maybe summer, but not my cup of tea for autumn.

On skin, the hyacinth is very much noticeable. When spraying myself with Lady Blanche, I made a note to myself that she and Infusion d'Iris are identical, but when smelling my wrist, I distinguish the hyacinth as being the sole noticeable note. It is so strong that I find Lady Blanche to be a purely hyacinth fragrance. The similarity to Infusion d'Iris is still there, but between those two scent experiences is another one too. A terrible one.

Something really synthetic and plastic like. It might just be my dislike of anything floral, especially hyacinth.

This is the type of fragrance that I struggle to write a review of from a full day's wear. 

I think I've gotten the jist of it - a green scent of a predominantly hyacinth note, floral of course, powdery and moderately sweet. 

That's it, you won't get more out of me.

Maybe just a last remark that I tried to wash it off and it ain't budging, to my dismay.

The Bewitching Yasmine by Penhaligon's

From the first spray, I am getting MFK-esque vibes. Think Oud Satin Mood. 

Rich, deep, spicy. Not for the faint of heart!

This is the perfect season to give The Bewitching Yasmine a go - an oudy, spicy fragrance with just the right amount of sweetness, so it doesn't become too cloying.

The fragrance reminds me so much of a scent I have already tried and reviewed, but I cannot remember which. I still keep thinking of Oud Satin Mood from MFK, but Yasmine is without any notes of rose.

The cardamom is at the forefront and is absolutely delicious, I get smokiness from the incense and just the right amount of creaminess and note of gourmand with the vanilla. I cannot wait to try this on my skin!

Beautiful, but like Oud Satin Mood, I feel overpowered by this kind of scent. I absolutely adore Woody Vanillas, I feel so empowered when wearing By the Fireplace or Memoirs of a Trespasser, but something about Yasmine is heavy, and maybe too much so.

After the initial dry down, she reminds me of Sweetly Known by Kerosene. It's the same, gorgeous cardamom, just lighter. Kerosene does NOT play when it comes to the performance of their fragrances.

After complete oxidation, Yasmine is a wonderfully soft cardamom scent. Not as strong and boozy as Sweetly Known. And not as strong as previously presumed by the first sprays. Gone is the MFK impression. It is, however, a 'would like to have' and neither a need or want to have. Were it to be in my collection, I would definitely wear it in autumn and winter, but I find it to have a poor projection for the price tag. The longevity is good, I could smell it, close to skin, six hours later.

Yasmine is really nice and cozy, I would definitely wear it again, but will satiate my appetite for Woody Vanillas with BTF an MOAT. Though a good sale would have me thinking of it...

Métallique by Tom Ford

Months ago, I was gifted many Tom Ford fragrances. One of them was Métallique.

By just taking the cap off, I could smell vanilla, but also an unquestionable note of something metallic. The note is so unique and realistic that it is more of a sensation. Like having bitten your lip and tasting the metallic taste of blood in your mouth.

Métallique is very unique and I dislike and like it at the same time. I honestly cannot have enough vanilla fragrances, but even though Métallique is largely based on vanilla, it is so unique that I wouldn't consider it a vanilla fragrance. 

Upon first spray, Métallique opens with a fresh citrus note of bergamot. I do love my citrus vanillas, but a note of something green keeps Métallique a freshy rather than a sweet gourmand. The green note is strongly meddled with heliotrope making the fragrance lightly floral and powdery.

On skin, vanilla isn't as prominent as it is from the bottle. Sharp citrus is the main accord along with aldehydes. The vanilla on skin is very dry and solely serves the purpose of grounding Métallique, so that it doesn't become a classic aromatic, green, cologne like fragrance. The dry vanilla is honestly the only thing that makes Métallique unisex, whereas without, it would have been leaning masculine.

I have to give this another go, but I feel a slight headache creeping in. I don't usually have headaches, they are always a result of a fragrance too strong for my liking. 

The metallic note isn't as prominent on skin as it is from the bottle, which is prefered. I cannot imagine how it would smell if it lasted on skin and how I would feel about it. Smelling as cold and sterile as metal does. 

I am honestly unsure whether I will reach for this fragrance. It is a citrus, yes, it has vanilla, which I love, and absolutely adore together, but it is done in such a way that I don't feel completely comfortable about it. However, after complete dry down, an hour or so later, Métallique is calm, delicate and a mellow version of what it was before. I would still describe it as a dry vanilla, but it is delicately floral, aldehydic, slightly powdery. You know what? An actual treat!

Mémoire d'Une Odeur by Gucci

Mémoire d'Une Odeur has been my Achilles heel in regards to reason. I have swarmed around this fragrance like a bee to a pollen-filled flower. The bottle is so insanely captivating, but the juice always made my nose scrunch up.

I was so lucky to have been gifted this beauty and finally had the chance to give it a proper go. I know I have been gone for too long yet again, but here I am and I hope you'll welcome me back.

Mémoire d'Une Odeur is quite difficult to describe. It is minty, green, herbal, yet light and airy. I recently tried and reviewed Matcha Meditation by Replica and my nose is therefore picking up some matcha in Mémoire d'Une Odeur too. After dry down, the scent becomes surprisingly unpleasant. Something plasticy appears and dominates it entirely. 

Oh no, this is not how it's supposed to go! 

I was expecting a fragrance that was too green and chamomile-based for my liking, but I'm getting a synthetic nightmare on my skin. It lingers like that for a long while and I was about to wash it off, but didn't, because I'm not going anywhere and want to give it a proper go. And this is how it went.

An hour in and the plastic note is gone, luckily, but the longevity of Mémoire d'Une Odeur is short lived too. Just close to skin, I get a faint chamomile and an airy jasmine. It is herbal and not too sweet, it is well balanced in that aspect, but it is not for me. What a hassle just to arrive to a lukewarm ending.

The only thing I do enjoy about Mémoire d'Une Odeur, is the absolute divine bottle. Though the juice inside was even worse than I expected, I will display it as an artwork in my collection. Proudly.

La Danza delle Libellule by Nobile 1942

Green apple vanilla cake. That is what comes to mind when smelling the first sprays of La Danza delle Libellule. I can almost taste my mother's apple pie with Polish crumble batter. The crunchy sugar, hint of cinnamon and the pie being fully cooled down. And that's a funny detail about this fragrance, it is very specific smelling like cooled down apple pie rather than a hot one straight from the oven. 

Close to skin, La Danza delle Libellule smells less like a cake and more of green apple. I am at a loss for words to describe the scent in any more specific detail.

On paper, the fragrance is like that of a crumbleless apple pie meaning that the baked apple and cinnamon is there, but without the doughie sweetness and warmth. It smells like a delicious homemade applesauce. This is only for the gourmand lovers for sure. And I also find it to be a scent for special occasions unless you don't mind smelling like apple cake in your day-to-day. This one is for the sunny days in the garden, for the picnic in the park, for the cosy cottage stays.

To those of you who haven't tasted my mother's apple pie (which is probably all of you) La Danza delle Libellule smells of cooked apples that are half made of sweet baking apples like that of Discovery and half of sour and fresh Braeburn apples. The apples are a delicious, perfect balance of sweet, fresh and sour. A pinch of cinnamon only alludes to the spice being used. The crumble is made with a little sour cream unlike many other recipes that only use sugar, flour and butter giving it a wonderful texture.

Baked with love at 220 degrees celsius. Have I painted you a picture yet?

La Danza delle Libellule is a mouthwatering fruity gourmand fragrance that will endear any heart unless you do not want to smell like pie and you most definitely will.

I usually don't mention this, but the atomiser is top tier too. I am so happy to have added this to my collection.

Hibiscus Mahajád by Maison Crivelli

Like so many other fragrances, Anne Lauren was the one to convince me to try Hibiscus Mahajád. When at Galilu last summer with my friend, I sprayed a paper strip liberally and was immediately taken aback by how potent the scent was. I looked over at my friend, she shook her head, but nonetheless I saved the paper strip in my purse for later wanting to give the fragrance a proper chance.

Back home, I emptied my purse full of paper strips and Hibiscus Mahajád stuck out like a sore thumb. I was still unsure, whether that was good or bad. For days it layed on the dining table being the main aura around our late night talks over wine or the next day for breakfast.

After a week, I still couldn't get myself to throw it out even though I was still unsure whether I liked it or not. At the end of my trip, I still struggled to throw it out and considered taking it back home. The paper strip remained just as potent with the juice of Hibiscus Mahajád as it was in the beginning.

I looked back and wondered about Hibiscus Mahajád, so when the opportunity came, I had to get my hands on a sample and this is how it went.

Hibiscus Mahajád is nothing like I remember. The difference is, besides the then heat and the current winter (I started this review half a year ago), is that I am testing it on skin. 

On skin, Hibiscus Mahajád smells like a hint of gasoline. The leather is definitely there and the hibiscus is in the background too. The scent is definitely floral, but in an unconventional way. This fragrance is a complete enigma to me and I find it very difficult to describe.

My boyfriend's short review is that this fragrance wants to be too much at the same time.

I find it fruity and floral in the most unique way. It is also a bit creamy, not lactonic, but creamy like suede. The fragrance might sound juvenile, but Hibiscus Mahajád is fruity and floral in the most mature way possible.

Most of all, I find Hibiscus Mahajád leathery, but completely void of the harshness and the sourness that often comes with a leather note.

After an hour, Hibiscus Mahajád is the most realistic cooled down cup of hibiscus tea. Deliciously sour and fiery red.

Funny thing is, I'm still unsure whether I like it when I smell it close to my wrist.
The projection is amazing and I can smell it all around me up in the air and I smell amazing! The fragrance gives me a boost in confidence even though it isn't sexy or flirtatious per se.

Hours later, the scent is the same, but so very different. It has calmed down, settled into my skin. Melted into it. Hibiscus Mahajád is just unique, there's no other way to put it. And I'm pretty sure, I love it. Oh, and so does my boyfriend. 

Half a year later, I am back to finishing this review. I have added the fragrance to my collection and worn it many times throughout winter. It is one of my absolute faves at the moment and a prized possession, however, I recommend not overusing it, because I did at some point and had to take a long break before introducing it again. Beware, Hibiscus Mahajád is a force to be reckoned with!